A"u:3":  ^ 


U.  S.  DEPARTMENT  OF  AGRICULTURE 

BUREAU  OF  ANIMAL  INDUSTRY.— Buu.htin  'No.  83.  '   ' 


,A.  D.  MELVIN,  Chief  of  Bureau. 


HAK 


mH 


INVESTIGATIONS  IN  THE  MANUFACTURE 
AND  CURING  OF  CHEESE. 


VI.— THE  COLD  CURING  OF  AMERICAN  CHEESE, 

WITH  A  DIGEST  OF  PREVIOUS  WORK  ON  THE  SUBJECT. 


BY 


C.  F.  DOANE,   M.  S., 

Expert  in  Dairying,  Dairy  Division, 
Bureau  of  Animal  Industry. 


WASHINGTON 


GOVERNMENT    PRINTING   OFFICE. 

I  "Oo. 


ORGANIZATION  OF  THE  BUREAU  OF  ANIMAL  INDUSTRY. 


Chief:  A.  D.  Mei.yin. 
Assistant  Chief:  A.  M.  Farrington. 
Chief  Clerk:  E.  B.  Jones. 

'Dairy  Division:  Er>.  H.  Webster,  chief;  Clarence  B.  Lane,  assistant  chief. 
Inspection  Dirizion:  Rice  P.  Steddom,  chief;  Morris  Wooden,  assistant  chief. 
Qn.arantiru  Division:  Richard  W.  Hickman,  chief. 
Animal  Husbandman:  George  M.  Rommel. 
Editor:  James  M.  Pickens. 
Artist:  W.  S.  D.  Haines. 
Librarian:  Beatrice  C.  Oberlt. 

laboratories. 

Biochemic  Division:  Marion  Dorset,  chief. 

Pathological  Division:  John  R.  Mohler,  chief. 

Zoological  Division:  Brayton  H.  Ransom,  scientific  assistant  in  charge. 

experiment  station. 

E.  C.  Schroeder,  superintendent;  W.  E.  Cotton,  assistant. 

meat  inspection. 

Inspectors  in  charge. 


Austin,  Minn.— Dr.  M.  O.  Anderson,  care  George 

A.  Hormel  &  Co. 
Baltimore.  Md.— Dr.  II.  A.  Hedrick,  215  St.  Paul 

street. 
Bloomington,  ILL— Dr.  Frederick  Braginton,  care 

Continental  Packing  Company. 
Boston.  Mass.— Dr.  J.  F.  Ryder.  141  Milk  street. 
Brightwood,    Mass.— Dr.    W.   J.    Murphy,    care 

Springfield  Provision  Company. 
Buffalo,  N.  Y— Dr.  B.  P.  Wende,  Live  Stock  Ex- 
change Building,  East  Buffalo. 
Cedar  Rapids. Iowa.— Dr.  T.  A.  Shipley,  care  T.  M. 

Sinclair  &  Co. 
Chicago, 111. — Dr.S. E.Bennett, room  316  Exchange 

Building,  Union  Stock  Yards. 
Cincinnati,  Ohio.— Dr.  A.  G.  G.  Richardson,  care 

Union  Stock  Yards. 
Cleveland,  Ohio.— Dr.  E.  P.  Schaffter,  care  Cleve- 
land Provision  Company. 
Davenport,  Iowa.— Dr.  E.  L.  Bertram,  care  Henry 

Kohrs  Packing  Companv. 
Denver,  Colo.— Dr.  W.  E.  Howe,  care  Western 

Packing  Company. 
Des  Moines,  Iowa.'— Dr.  A.  B.  Morse,  care  The 

Agar  Packing  Company. 
Detroit,  Mich.— Dr.  L.  K.  Green,  care  Hammond, 

Standish  &  Co. 
Eau  Claire,  Wis.— Dr.  G.  W.  Butler,  care  Drum- 

mond  Brothers. 
Fort  Worth,  Tex.— Dr.  A.  H.  Wallace,  care  Swift 

&.  Co. 
Hutchinson,    Kans.— Dr.  J.   E.   Blaekwell,  care 

Hutchinson  Packing  Company. 
Indianapolis,  Ind. — Dr.  N.  C.  Sorensen,  care  Kin- 

gan  &  Co. 
Jersey  City,  N.  J— Dr.  Julius  Huelsen,  care  The 

Jersey  City  Stock  Yard  Company. 
Kansas"  City,  Kans.— Dr.  L.  R.  Baker,  room  332 

Live  Stock  Exchange. 
Los  Angeles,  Cal  —  Dr.  A.  E.  Rishel,  care  Cudahy 

Packing  Companv. 
Louisville,  Ky.— Dr.  II.  H.  George,  507  Johnson 

street. 
Mankato,  Minn. — Dr.  H.  H.  Dell,  care  Macbeth  & 

Ga  rdner. 
Marshalltown,  Iowa.— Dr.  J. O.  F.  Price,  care  Brit- 
tain  cV  Co. 
Mason  City,  Iowa.— Dr.  Robert  Jay,  care  Jacob  E. 

Decker  &  Sons. 


Milwaukee,  Wis.— Dr.  A.  E.  Behnke,  room  432 

Federal  Building. 
Nashville,  Tenn.— Dr.W.  B.  Lincoln,  care  Tennes- 
see Packing  and  Provision  Company. 
National  Stock  Yards,  111.— Dr.  J.  B.  Clancy. 
Nebraska  City,  Nebr.— Dr.  W.  H.   Gibbs,   care 

Morton-Gregson  Company. 
Newark,  N.  J.— Dr.  Thomas  Castor,  care  Swift  & 

Co.,  Harrison  Station. 
New  Haven,  Conn.— Dr.  Albert  Long,  care  Sperry 

&  Barnes. 
New  York,  N.  Y—  Dr.  H.  N.  Waller,  109  West 

Forty-second  street. 
Ottumwa,  Iowa. — Dr.  Joshua  Miller,  care  John 

Morrell  &  Co. 
Philadelphia,  Pa.— Dr.  C.  A.  Schaufler,  134  South 

Second  street. 
Pittsburg,  Pa.— Dr.  F.W.  Ainsworth.Union  Stock 

Yards. 
Portland,  Oreg.— Dr.  Clarence  Loveberry,  room 

402  Custom-House  (new) . 
Quincy,   III.— Dr.  J.  S.  Kelly,  care  Bloomer  & 

Michael  Co. 
St.  Louis,  Mo.— Dr.  J.  J.  Brougham,  care  Missouri 

Stock  Yards  Company. 
San  Diego,  Cal.— Dr.  Robert  Darling,  care  Charles 

S.  Hardy. 
San  Francisco,  Cal.— Dr.  George  S.  Baker,  Sixth 

and  Townsend  streets. 
Seattle,  Wash.— Dr.  O.  B.  Hess,  care  Frye-Bruhn 

Company. 
Sioux  City,  Iowa.— Dr.  G.  A.  Johnson,  Exchange 

Building. 
South  Omaha,  Nebr— Dr.  DonC.Ayer,  Post-Office 

Building. 
South  St.  Joseph,  Mo.— Dr.  George  Ditewig. 
South  St.  Paul,  Minn.— Dr.  F.  D.  Ketchum. 
Tacoma,  Wash.— Dr.  E.  C.  Joss,  care  Carstcns 

Packing  Company. 
Topeka,  Kans.— Dr.  F.  L.  De  Wolf,  care  Charles 

Wolff  Packing  Company. 
Waterloo,  Iowa— Dr.  T.  W.  Scott,  care  The  Rath 

Packing  Company. 
Wichita,  Kans.— Dr.W.  N.Neil,  care  John  Cudahy 

Company. 
Worcester',  Mass.— Dr.  E.  P.  Dowd,  care  White 

Fevey  &  Dexter  Co. 


me,  , 

A 


U.  S.  DEPARTMENT  OF  AGRICULTURE, 

BUREAU  OF  ANIMAL  INDUSTRY.— BULLETIN  No.  85. 

A.   D.   MF.LV1N,  Chief  of  Bureau. 


INVESTIGATIONS  IN  THE  MANUFACTURE 
AND  CURING  OF  CHEESE. 


VI.— THE  COLD  CURING  OF  AMERICAN  CHEESE, 

WITH  A  DIGEST  OF  PREVIOUS  WORK  ON  THE  SUBJECT. 


BY 


C.   F.   DOANF,   M.  S., 

Expert  in  Dairying,  Dairy  Division, 
Bttreau  of  Animal  Industry. 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT    PRINTING   OFFICE. 
1906. 


DAIRY    DIVISION 


SCIENTIFIC    STAFF. 

Chief:  Ed.  H.  Webster. 

Assistant  chief:  C.  B.  Lane. 

Market  milk  investigations:  Assistant  chief,  in  charge. 

Butter  investigations:  C.  E.  Gray,  chemist:  L.  A.  Rogers,  bacteriologist. 

Cheese  investigations:  C.  F.  Doane,  in  charge:  Charles  Thorn,  mycologist;  Arthur  W.  Dox, 

chemist :  T.  W.  Issajeff,  expert  maker  of  European  varieties  of  cheese. 
Southern  dairying:  B.  II.  Rawl,  in  charge.  Duncan  Stuart,  assistant. 
Dairy  buildings  investigations:  G.  II.  Parks,  in  charge. 

INSPECTION    STAFF. 

Renovated-butter  factories:  M.  W.  Lang,  423  Marine  Building,  Chicago,  in  charge. 

Renovated-butter  markets:  Levi  Wells,  Laceyville,  Pa.,  in  charge. 

Inspectors:  Robert  McAdam,  423  Marine  Building,  Chicago;  George  M.  Whitaker,  Washing- 
ton, D.  C. ;   E.  A.  McDonald,  Seattle,  Wash.;   W.  S.  Smarzo,  6  Harrison  street,  New 
York,  N.  Y. 
2 


LETTER   OF  TRANSMITTAL 


U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture, 

Bureau  of  Animal  Industry, 
'Washington,  D.  C,  May  10,  1906. 
Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  transmit  herewith  a  manuscript  entitled 
"The  Cold  Curing  of  American  Cheese,"  by  C.  F.  Doane,  expert  in 
charge  of  cheese  investigations  of  the  Dairy  Division  of  this  Bureau. 
This  paper,  which  is  one  in  a  series  on  Investigations  in  the  Manufac- 
ture and  Curing  of  Cheese,  contains  a  report  of  recent  experiments  by 
the  Dairy  Division,  prefaced  b}^  a  review  of  previous  work  in  cold 
curing.     In  view  of  the  undoubted  value  of  this  information  for  the 
cheese  industry  of  the  country  I  recommend  its  publication  as  a  bul- 
letin of  this  Bureau. 
Respectfully, 

A.  D.  Melvin, 
Chief  of  Bureau. 
Hon.  James  Wilson, 

Secretary  of  Agriculture. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2012  with  funding  from 

University  of  Florida,  George  A.  Smathers  Libraries  with  support  from  LYRASIS  and  the  Sloan  Foundation 


http://archive.org/details/investOOusde 


CONTENTS 


Page. 

Preliminary  remarks 9 

Review  of  previous  experiments  in  cold  and  cool  curing 11 

The  subearth  duct 12 

The  Wisconsin  work  in  cold  curing 13 

The  first  cold-curing  experiments 13 

Later  work 14 

Results  of  Wisconsin  experiments 15 

Canadian  experiments  in  cold  and  cool  curing 16 

Comments  on  the  Wisconsin  and  the  Canadian  work 19 

Comparison  of  ice  and  mechanical  refrigeration 20 

Increase  of  cold-storage  plants  in  cheese  districts 21 

Comparative  advantages  of  cold  and  cool  curing 22 

Cooperative  work  by  the  Department  of  Agriculture  and  State  stations 24 

Minor  experiments  by  the  Iowa  and  New  York  stations . .  27 

Report  of  recent  experiments  by  the  Department  of  Agriculture 28 

Trade  conditions  and  practices 29 

Plan  of  t  he  work 29 

Details  of  manufacture,  storage,  and  curing .  31 

Low  and  high  rennet 31 

Selection  and  handling  of  milk  and  curd 32 

Met  hod  of  storing  and  curing 33 

Paraffining 34 

Details  of  making  the  cheese 34 

Treatment  of  factory -cured  cheese 36 

The  judges  and  the  scoring 37 

Effect  of  paraffining  and  temperature  on  weight. 38 

Scores  of  the  cheese 41 

Cold  curing  and  acid  cheese 65 

Variations  in  scores  of  the  different  judges. 66 

Relation  of  green  curd  to  cured  cheese 67 

Effect  of  extra  rennet 68 

7 


INVESTIGATIONS  IN  THE  MANUFACTURE  AND  CURING 

OF  CHEESE. 


THE  COLD  CURING  OF  AMERICAN  CHEESE. 

PRELIMINARY  REMARKS. 

There  is  a  general  opinion  of  long  standing  that  it  is  necessary  for 
cheese  to  go  through  a  ripening  or  breaking-down  process  before  it  is 
fit  for  human  food.  The  green  cheese  as  it  comes  from  the  press  has  a 
consistency  much  like  that  of  india  rubber  and  feels  somewhat  like 
that  substance  to  the  touch.  In  addition  there  are  certain  physiolog- 
ical effects  popularly  supposed  to  follow  the  eating  of  green  curd  as  it 
comes  from  the  vat,  and  this  supposition  has  grown  into  a  belief  on  the 
part  of  both  scientist  and  layman  that  the  green  cheese  is  partially  if 
not  almost  wholly  indigestible.  These  opinions,  which  will  very 
likely  be  shown  to  have  little  foundation  in  fact,  made  it  seem  desir- 
able that  the  cheese  should  go  through  a  ripening  or  breaking-down 
process  before  it  reached  the  hands  of  the  retail  dealer  and  consumer. 
But  it  is  not  the  purpose  in  this  bulletin  to  go  into  any  discussion  of 
the  changes  that  occur  during  this  ripening  period;  they  are  very 
complicated,  are  probably  due  to  a  number  of  disputed  causes,  and 
are  evidently  not  thoroughly  understood  by  scientists  in  general. 

The  outward  evidence  that  this  ripening  has  progressed  to  a  sup- 
posedly sufficient  extent  is  a  change  in  the  physical  condition  of  the 
cheese,  in  which  the  curd  loses  its  elastic  consistency  and  becomes 
friable  and  waxy  to  the  touch  and  somewhat  soluble  in  water.  During 
this  process,  when  carried  through  under  old  factory  conditions,  there 
is  also  a  decided  change  in  the  flavor.  The  flat  and  insipid  taste  of 
the  green  curd  disappears,  and  the  product  acquires  a  characteristic 
cheesy  flavor,  which  becomes  strong  and  sharp  as  the  ripening 
progresses. 

As  will  be  discussed  in  greater  detail  later,  a  decided  change  has 
evidently  taken  place  in  the  tastes  and  desires  of  the  consumer  along 
this  line.  The  market  is  progressing  toward  a  milder  cheese,  and  this 
change  has  evidently  come  with  the  new  ideas  in  regard  to  curing. 
Under  the  old  system  of  warm  curing  rooms  the  consumer  had  very 
little  chance  to  become  acquainted  with  anything  but  a  product  well 
broken  down  in  texture  and  highly  developed  in  flavor.     While  it  is 

9 


10  MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 

hard  to  predict  the  future  course  of  the  consumer's  taste  in  this  con- 
nection, it  is  very  doubtful  if  we  shall  ever  arrive  at  the  time  or  con- 
dition when  as  a  general  thing  some  flavor  is  not  desired  in  the  cheese. 
This  comparative  demand  for  mild  or  for  strong  cheese  is  very  naturally 
of  considerable  interest  in  connection  with  any  question  concerning 
methods  and  conditions  of  curing.  Especially  is  this  true  in  the 
discussion  of  methods  which  are  likely  to  cause  a  great  variation  in  the 
flavor  of  the  product.  The  old  system  of  warm  rooms  developed  a 
high  flavor;  the  new  sj^stem  of  cold  rooms  has  a  tendency  to  suppress 
flavor  entirely.  To  ascertain  the  public  taste  and  meet  it  by  modifi- 
cations will  probably  prove  to  be  almost  a  necessity  in  the  cheese- 
curing  industry. 

In  the  American  or  Cheddar  cheese  industry  of  the  present  time 
there  are  two  very  important  practical  questions,  one  of  recent  origin 
and  the  other  recognized  for  several  }rears.  These  are  so  closely 
related  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  consider  them  separately,  as 
they  depend  to  a  great  extent  upon  each  other.  The  recent  question 
has  already  been  mentioned,  and  relates  to  the  growth  of  the  popular 
demand  for  mild  cheese;  the  other  is  the  problem  of  the  influence  of 
temperature  on  the  curing  of  cheese,  which  has  been  studied  for  about 
ten  years  and  which  has  a  number  of  points  that  have  not  yet  been 
settled  to  the  satisfaction  of  cheese  dealers  in  general. 

In  the  early  days  of  the  industry  in  this  country  not  much  attention 
was  paid  to  the  question  of  the  effect  of  temperature  on  curing.  The 
curing  rooms  or  "dry  houses/'  as  they  were  called,  had  very  little  or 
no  provision  against  changes  in  temperature,  and  it  is  probable  that 
the  temperature  followed  closely  that  of  the  outside  atmosphere. 
The  practice  of  winter  cheese  making  is  of  comparatively  recent  origin, 
so  that  there  was,  as  a  rule,  no  necessity  for  any  provision  against  the 
freezing  of  the  product.  Heat  was  not  supposed  to  have  any  effect 
in  the  curing — it  would  at  least  so  appear  from  a  description  of  the  old 
curing  rooms — and  consequently  no  attempt  at  insulation  was  made. 
It  was  not  until  1895  that  this  question  of  curing-room  temperature 
was  considered  of  sufficient  importance  to  warrant  any  attempt  being 
made  to  determine  if  any  benefit  could  be  derived  from  the  employ- 
ment of  an  artificial  temperature  lower  than  the  temperature  prevail- 
ing during  a  large  part  of  the  summer.  It  is  somewhat  astonishing 
that  this  should  have  been  the  case,  as  at  the  present  time  it  is  so  well 
recognized  that  the  effects  of  high  temperature  on  cheese  are  plainly 
unfavorable  that  we  do  not  understand  why  the  cheese  maker  of 
twenty  or  thirty  years  ago  should  not  have  perceived  this  and  tried 
to  remedy  it.  We  know  that  where  a  cheese  has  any  tendency  what- 
ever to  a  gassy  nature  the  heat  immediately  causes  it  to  swell  or  huff 
up  to  an  extent  causing  considerable  damage  to  its  commercial  value. 
We  also  know  that  the  heat  causes  the  grease  to  come  out  of  the 


REVIEW    OF    PREVIOUS    EXPERIMENTS.  11 

cheese,  and  that  it  has  a  tendency  to  develop  any  latent  undesirable 
flavors ;  in  fact,  there  are  but  few  respects  in  which  heat  does  not  have 
an  unfavorable  influence.  And  yet  it  would  appear  that  the  cheese 
maker  of  those  days  entirely  overlooked  these  things.  It  is  likely  that 
he  considered  these  evils  as  more  the  result  of  the  season  than  the 
effect  of  any  conditions  that  were  within  his  control. 

The  first  scientific  theories  worthy  of  consideration  in  connection 
with  the  curing  process  did  not  tend  to  help  matters  to  any  extent. 
As  soon  as  the  science  of  bacteriology  had  grown  to  any  importance  the 
ripening  of  cheese  was  studied  from  this  point  of  view,  and  it  was  very 
generally  concluded  that  the  process  was  almost  entirely  due  to  bac- 
teriological changes.  It  was  believed  that  these  changes  could  not 
take  place  in  a  temperature  below  that  at  which  the  germs  developed 
to  the  best  advantage.  This  would  require  from  60°  to  80°  F.,  and  it 
was  naturally  supposed  that  anything  within  these  limits  was  proper 
and  necessary. 

REVIEW    OF   PREVIOUS    EXPERIMENTS   IN   COLD   AND    COOL 

CURING. 

The  first  work  to  determine  the  influence  of  lower  temperatures  on 
the  ripening  of  cheese  was  undertaken  by  the  Wisconsin  Experiment 
Station  in  1895.°  In  this  experiment  cheese  was  cured  at  three  tem- 
peratures, 50°,  60°  to  65°,  and  85°  F.  It  was  found  that  the  cheese 
cured  at  50°  F.,  though  requiring  a  much  longer  time  than  the  cheese 
cured  at  the  higher  temperatures,  broke  down  fully  as  well.  It  was 
considered  by  the  judges  to  have  about  the  same  quality  and  value  as 
the  cheese  cured  at  the  temperature  of  from  60°  to  65°  F.  It  was 
found  in  this  experiment  that  the  cheese  cured  at  85°  F.  was  very- 
strong  and  almost  unfit  for  use. 

This  proof  that  cheese  could  be  cured  satisfactorily  below  60°  F. 
had  in  it  the  germ  of  a  revolution  in  ideas  and  practices  concerning  the 
process.  Two  important  facts  were  brought  out;  the  first,  that  cheese 
could  be  cured  at  a  temperature  much  below  that  at  which  bacteria, 
supposed  to  have  so  much  influence  on  the  curing,  could  very  well 
develop;  the  other,  in  connection  with  the  bacteriological  study  which 
was  conducted  at  the  same  time  with  the  cheese  under  experiment, 
that  the  bacteria  persisted  in  large  numbers  much  longer  in  the  cheese 
kept  at  a  low  temperature  than  in  that  kept  at  a  higher  temperature. 

These  experiments  were  soon  followed  by  similar  work  in  Iowa,6  in 
Canada, c  and  by  the  New  York  State  Experiment  Station  at  Geneva. d 
These  experiments,  which  were  along  parallel  lines  and  gave  similar 
results,  will  be  mentioned  again. 

a  Annual  Report,  Wisconsin  Experiment  Station,  1897. 

b  Bulletin  No.  57,  Iowa  Experiment  Station. 

cAnnual  Report,  Ontario  Agricultural  College  and  Experimental  Farm,  1900. 

d Bulletin  No.  184,  New  York  Experiment  Station. 


12  MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 

THE    SUBEARTH    DUCT. 

The  conclusion,  drawn  from  the  work  of  these  experiment  stations, 
that  low  temperatures  for  curing  could  be  profitably  employed  led  to 
attempts  to  secure  a  lower  range  of  temperature  in  the  rooms  already 
in  use.  An  effort  was  made  to  provide  better  insulated  curing  rooms 
in  which  the  temperature  would  not  be  greatly  affected  by  hot  weather 
outside.  In  a  few  instances  in  Wisconsin  and  in  many  instances  in 
Canada  some  attempt  was  made  to  secure  lower  temperatures  by 
artificial  means.  The  best  known  of  these  devices  is  what  is  called  the 
subearth  duct,  which  is  worthy  of  notice  in  any  discussion  of  the  sub- 
ject of  temperatures  in  connection  with  cheese  ripening.  The  principle 
of  the  subearth  duct,  as  is  well  understood  by  cheese  men  acquainted 
with  the  subject,  was  based  upon  the  fact  that  the  temperature  of  the 
earth  several  feet  below  the  surface  remains  practically  stationary  and 
is  much  below  the  average  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  during  the 
summer  months.  Several  lines  of  tiles,  such  as  are  used  for  drain- 
age purposes,  were  laid  at  varying  depths  beneath  the  earth's  surface 
and  provided  with  a  funnel  which  turned  toward  the  wind  at  the 
opening  where  the  pipe  came  to  the  surface.  There  was  also  a  funnel 
which  acted  as  a  draft  above  the  curing  room  and  served  to  draw 
the  air  through  these  tiles  and  into  the  curing  room.  The  room  itself, 
of  course,  was  well  insulated,  and  it  was  found  that  by  this  means  a 
fairly  even  temperature  could  be  maintained  at  about  60°  F.  There 
were  certain  modifications  of  this  duct,  in  some  instances  the  curing- 
room  air  being  drawn  from  near  the  bottom  of  a  well  in  much  the 
same  manner.     This  was  also  a  success  in  regulating  the  temperature. 

In  this  country  this  method  of  maintaining  a  suitable  and  even 
temperature  was  for  various  reasons  never  very  extensively  applied, 
there  being  a  difference  of  opinion  regarding  its  efficiency.  A  number 
of  cheese  makers  who  had  cool-curing  rooms  believed  that  they  could 
make  a  softer  cheese  than  had  been  customary  in  hot  weather,  but 
when  this  cheese  passed  from  the  hands  of  the  maker  to  the  dealer  and 
was  brought  in  contact  with  higher  temperatures  it  caused  unfavor- 
able comment.  This  was  wrongly  and  unreasonably  charged  to  the 
subearth-duct  curing  room,  when  in  fact  it  was  the  fault  of  the  maker. 
There  was  also  said  to  be  considerably  more  trouble  with  mold  than 
had  been  the  case  with  the  old-style  curing  rooms. 

Had  there  been  any  necessity  for  the  continuation  of  this  method 
for  securing  low  temperatures  there  is  little  doubt  that  the  subearth 
duct  or  some  other  artificial  means  of  obtaining  the  same  results  would 
have  come  into  general  use  in  the  better  cheese  districts,  for  at  the 
present  time  the  bad  effects  of  any  high  degree  of  temperature  in  the 
curing  of  cheese  are  thoroughly  understood.  But  other  methods  and 
systems  of  handling  cheese  were  developed,  founded  on  new  discover- 


WISCONSIN    WORK    IN    COLD    CURING.  13 

ies,  and  the  development  of  the  cold-storage  system  did  away  with 
any  necessity  for  a  cool  factory  curing  room. 

Following  the  introduction  of  cold-storage  curing,  cheese  was  held 
in  the  factory  for  a  much  shorter  period  than  formerly.  The  subearth 
duct  was  expensive,  and  well-insulated  curing  rooms  were  found  to  be 
sat isf actor}"  for  the  shorter  period  before  going  to  the  storage  room. 

THE    WISCONSIN    WORK    IN    COLD    CURING. 

The  work  in  Wisconsin,  already  mentioned,  led  Doctors  Babcock 
and  Russell  to  believe  that  the  processes  through  which  cheese  passed 
in  curing  were  due  partially  at  least  to  other  agencies  than  bacteria. 
Investigations  were  conducted  which  led  to  the  discovery  of  galac- 
tase, a  an  enzyme  natural  to  milk  and  which  has  the  power  of  breaking 
down  the  casein.  It  is  not  the  purpose  of  this  bulletin  to  enter  into 
any  details  of  that  discovery  or  of  the  controversy  that  has  resulted 
between  scientists  on  this  general  subject  of  cheese  curing.  This  dis- 
covery indicated  that  it  might  be  entirely  possible  to  cure  cheese  at  a 
much  lower  temperature  than  had  previously  been  used,  and  naturally 
led  to  experiments  along  this  line.  There  is  no  doubt  that  this  dis- 
covery has  been  responsible  for  many  changes  in  the  cheese  industry, 
for  it  has  affected  the  curing  processes,  has  indirectly  modified  the 
taste  of  the  consumer,  and  a  long  series  of  changes  has  followed,  soiue 
of  which  are  still  in  progress. 

The  Wisconsin  Station  was  the  first  to  inaugurate  experiments  in  the 
cold  curing  of  cheese.6  This  very  naturally  followed  the  discovery  of 
galactose  and  the  previous  experiments  in  cool  curing,  which  might  be 
considered  as  preliminary  to  the  greater  work  that  followed.  Wiscon- 
sin's first  work  along  these  lines  was  followed  in  a  short  time  by  similar 
experiments  at  Guelph,  Ontario,  Canada,  under  the  direction  of  Pro- 
fessor Dean,  head  of  the  dairy  department  of  the  Agricultural  College. 
About  an  equal  amount  of  work  has  been  done  by  these  two  institu- 
tions, but  of  course  that  done  by  Wisconsin  will  always  be  of  the  greater 
interest,  because  to  this  station  belongs  the  credit  of  having  made  the 
discovery  which  naturally  led  up  to  this  work,  and  because  of  its  gen- 
eral activity  along  these  lines. 

THE    FIRST    COLD-CURING    EXPERIMENTS. 

The  first  actual  cold-curing  experiments  were  undertaken  at  the 
Wisconsin  Station  following  the  discovery  of  galactase.c  In  these 
tests  five  temperatures  were  employed,  15°,  33°,  40°,  50°,  and  60°  F. 

a  Annual  Report,  Wisconsin  Experiment  Station,  1897. 

b  "  Cold  curing  "  is  the  term  ordinarily  applied  to  curing  at  temperatures  below  50°  F., 
to  differentiate  it  from  the  method  employed  in  Canada,  where  artificial  temperatures 
above  50°  F.  are  used  and  the  process  is  termed  "  cool  curing."  These  terms  are  well 
understood  by  cheese  men  and  are  entirely  distinct. 

c Annual  Report,  Wisconsin  Experiment  Station,  1901. 


14  MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 

Three  different  lots  of  cheese  were  stored  at  these  temperatures,  the 
lots  being  made  up,  respectively,  with  3,  6,  and  9  ounces  of  rennet  to 
1,000  pounds  of  milk.  Chemical  analyses  made  periodically  after  the 
cheese  was  put  into  storage  showed  by  the  soluble  proteids  that  the 
cheese  broke  down  more  slowly  in  the  lower  temperatures.  There 
was,  however,  a  steady,  though  slow,  change  even  at  the  lowest  tem- 
perature of  15°  F.  The  increased  amount  of  rennet,  according  to  the 
analyses,  showed  marked  influence  in  hastening  the  breaking  down  of 
the  curd. 

In  storing  these  cheeses  at  the  different  temperatures  it  was  found 
that  40°  and  50°  F.  gave  the  best  results  when  considered  by  the 
market  standards  of  that  time.  The  temperature  of  60°  F.  gave  a 
cheese  with  impaired  flavor  and  injured  texture.  In  these  tests  the 
high-rennet  cheese  had  the  best  texture,  the  flavor  being  as  good  as 
with  the  lower  rennet.  A  peculiarity  often  noticed  in  cheese  held  at  a 
low  temperature  was  first  seen  in  these  experiments — that  is,  the 
development  of  white  specks  throughout  the  body  of  the  cheese, 
which  might  be  considered  as  injuring  its  commercial  value  to  a  very 
slight  extent.  The  cheeses  in  these  experiments  were  cut  and  photo- 
graphs were  made  which  showed  the  close  texture  of  the  cold-cured 
cheese.  At  the  temperature  of  15°  F.  a  soggy,  crumbty  texture  was 
found."  In  this  report  the  first  suggestions  were  made  as  to  the 
advisability  of  building  centralized  curing  rooms,  and  the  report  also 
mentioned  further  experiments  which  were  then  in  progress  along  the 
same  line.  Only  partial  results  were  given,  the  full  statement  of  the 
completed  experiment  being  left  for  a  future  publication. 

In  the  publication  covering  the  completed  experiment6  data  are 
given  as  to  the  effect  of  a  long  period  of  time  on  the  cheese  carried  at 
33°  and  40°  F.  This  cheese  was  found  to  be  of  fine  quality  at  the  end 
of  two  years,  while  that  held  at  50°  F.  was  on  the  decline  at  the  end  of 
sixteen  months. 

LATER    WORK. 

The  details  of  three  additional  series  of  experiments  are  given  in  the 
same  report.  In  the  first  of  these  the  cheese  was  made  at  the  univer- 
sity, the  normal  amount  of  rennet  being  added  and  the  cheese  being 
stored  at  15°,  40°,  and  60°  F.  The  cheese  held  at  60°  F.  commenced 
to  deteriorate  in  quality  at  about  six  months,  and  was  putrid  at  about 
fourteen  months.  The  cheese  placed  in  the  15-degree  temperature 
was  removed  to  a  40-degree  room  at  the  end  of  seven  months.  In  this 
series  the  cheese  held  at  60°  F.  received  the  highest  total  score,  which 
was  given  when  it  was  five  months  of  age.  The  cheese  kept  at  40°  F. 
received  a  maximum  score  of  1  point  less  than  the  60-degree  cheese, 

a  Further  experiments  modified  this  conclusion. 

ft  Annual  Report,  Wisconsin  Experiment  Station,  1902, 


WISCONSIN    WORK    IN    COLD    CURING.  15 

reaching  this  at  fourteen  months.  The  cheese  held  at  15°  F.  scored 
very  low  until  placed  in  the  40-degree  room,  when  it  commenced  to 
improve  and  developed  into  a  very  fine  product. 

The  second  experiment  of  the  series  was  made  in  a  regular  cheese 
factory,  and  the  report  states  that  the  results  are  entitled  to  more 
weight  than  those  of  previous  trials,  as  all  the  cheese  came  from  the 
same  vat.  The  cheese  was  made  with  3  ounces  of  rennet,  and  was 
stored  at  15°,  40°,  50°,  and  60°  F.  Before  being  stored  the  cheese  was 
divided  into  three  lots.  The  first  lot  went  into  storage  direct  from  the 
press,  the  second  lot  was  held  at  40°  F.  for  fifteen  days  and  then  stored 
the  same  as  the  first  lot,  and  the  third  lot  was  kept  at  40°  F.  for  thirty 
days  and  then  stored  as  the  others.  The  temperatures  of  50°  F.  and 
below  seemed  to  give  the  best  results,  the  cheese  cured  at  50°  F.  being 
the  best  of  all.  Part  of  the  cheese  held  for  fifteen  and  thirty  days  at 
40°  F.  and  then  for  five  months  at  15°  F.  was  then  removed  to  the 
40-degree  room.  At  the  end  of  one  year  some  of  this  cheese  had 
an  almost  perfect  score. 

The  cheese  for  the  third  and  last  series  was  made  in  a  commercial 
factory  and  was  stored  at  32°,  35°,  40°,  and  60°  F.  The  results 
were  the  same  as  in  the  previous  trials.  A  number  of  duplicates 
which  were  put  into  storage  were  afterwards  sold  in  the  Chicago 
market  and  brought  prices  considerably  above  that  obtained  for 
ordinary  cheese. 

These  three  experiments  strongly  emphasized  the  fact  that  in  body 
and  texture  all  the  cheese  kept  at  the  lower  temperatures  was  supe- 
rior, but  according  to  the  market  standards  of  that  time  it  would 
appear  that  the  cheese  cured  at  60°  F.  was  superior  to  the  others 
in  flavor  at  some  periods  of  its  ripening  and  would  probably  have 
brought  better  prices.  As  this  prime  condition  for  the  60-degree 
cheese  was  at  about  five  months  of  age,  it  is  exceedingly  doubtful  if 
the  improved  quality  at  the  lower  temperatures  was  of  any  practical 
benefit. 

RESULTS   OF    WISCONSIN    EXPERIMENTS. 

The  work  done  by  the  Wisconsin  Station  was  summed  up  in  another 
report, a  a  number  of  points  being  emphasized  which  had  been  brought 
out  in  the  work  of  the  station  and  which  had  not  been  given  much 
prominence  in  previous  reports.  Attention  was  called  to  the  fact 
that  the  cheese  cured  in  cold  storage  was  much  more  uniform  in 
quality  than  that  cured  under  the  old  conditions.  It  was  stated 
that  most  factories  suffered  considerable  loss  from  the  rejection  of 
cheese  because  of  its  inferior  quality.  It  was  pointed  out  that  such 
losses  were  in  part  due  to  the  use  of  tainted  milk  and  to  variation 
in   manufacturing    details,    but    in    large    measure    they   might    be 

o  Bulletin  No,  94,  Wisconsin  Experiment  Station. 


16  MANUFACTURE  AND  CURING  OF  CHEESE. 

ascribed  to  variation  in  curing  conditions  due  to  inefficient  methods 
of  control.  Of  these  curing  conditions,  temperature  was  by  far  the 
most  important.  With  cheese  cured  at  lower  temperatures  the  effect 
of  these  factors  was  much  modified,  with  reference  not  only  to  the 
conditions  which  occurred  in  the  curing,  but  also  to  the  variations 
in  conditions  of  manufacture.  The  result  showed  that  with  a  lower 
temperature  the  quality  of  the  cheese  is  more  uniform,  and  the  product 
would  naturally  bring  a  somewhat  higher  price  and  be  more  sought 
after  by  the  buyer. 

An  interesting  feature  of  the  work  carried  on  by  the  Wisconsin 
Station  was  the  placing  of  cheese  at  a  temperature  below  freezing, 
15°  or  17°  F.  It  has  always  been  believed  by  people  familiar  with 
the  handling  of  cheese  under  storage  conditions,  and  it  seems  to  be 
an  opinion  firmly  held  at  the  present  time,  that  a  temperature  low 
enough  to  freeze  is  detrimental,  if  not  ruinous,  to  the  cheese.  The 
first  report  of  the  Wisconsin  Station  seemed  to  support  this  idea. 
Cheese  came  from  the  low  temperature  in  a  very  unsatisfactory  con- 
dition; but  further  experiments  along  this  line  gave  a  slightly  dif- 
ferent result,  the  cheese  being  handled  differently  after  coming  from 
the  colder  temperature.  In  the  first  experiment  it  was  scored  imme- 
diately after  coming  from  the  15-degree  room.  In  subsequent  experi- 
ments the  cheese  was  placed  in  a  warmer  room  for  a  time,  and,  as  has 
been  previously  noted,  there  was  an  immediate  and  constant  improve- 
ment until  it  reached  an  almost  perfect  condition,  showing  that  the 
bad  effect  of  the  freezing  of  the  cheese  was  only  temporary.  While 
this  fact  is  interesting  from  a  scientific  point  of  view,  it  is  doubtful 
if  under  the  present  market  conditions  it  can  ever  be  put  into  practical 
application.  It  is  true  that  the  cheese  kept  much  longer  at  this  lower 
temperature,  and  it  is  also  probably  true  that  the  cheese  could  be 
held  indefinitely  at  15°  F.,  but  it  is  difficult  to  see  how  this' could 
be  applied  to  any  commercial  condition  where  it  would  be  of  any 
value.  In  short,  it  is  doubtful  if  it  is  ever  advisable  to  keep  cheese 
longer  than  nine  or  ten  months.  Conditions  may  some  time  arise 
under  which  this  would  be  desirable,  but  it  is  now  difficult  to  imagine 
any  future  conditions  to  warrant  this  temperature  being  applied  to 
any  cheese  as  it  comes  into  storage. 

CANADIAN    EXPERIMENTS    IN    COLD    AND    COOL    CURING. 

As  has  been  already  mentioned,  the  Ontario  Agricultural  College 
followed  very  closely  the  lead  of  the  Wisconsin  Experiment  Station 
in  curing  experiments  involving  the  effect  of  different  temperatures.  ° 
In  the  first  experiments  cheese  was  cured  at  60°,  66°,  and  69°  F., 
and  it  was  found  that  that  cured  at  60°  F.  was  of  higher  quality, 
both  in  texture  and  flavor,  than  that  cured  at  either  of  the  other 

a  Annual  Report,  Ontario  Agricultural  College  and  Experimental  Farm,  1898. 


CANADIAN    EXPERIMENTS.  17 

temperatures.  The  cheese  cured  at  the  highest  temperature  went 
off  in  flavor  very  rapidly.  The  tests  ran  through  a  period  of  two 
months  and  included  a  large  number  of  lots  of  cheese.  In  a  series 
of  cooperative  experiments  with  cheese  factories  the  same  tempera- 
tures were  employed  and  the  same  results  were  obtained. 

During  the  following  year  the  previous  tests  were  repeated. a 
Results  were  the  same  as  before,  the  cheese  cured  at  the  lowest  tem- 
perature being  the  best  in  quality.  It  was  found  in  these  tests  that 
cheeses  of  varying  sizes  were  affected  in  practically  the  same  way 
by  the  different  temperatures.  Some  of  the  cheese  was  carried  at 
a  high  temperature  obtained  artificially,  and  was  then  placed  in  the 
cool  rooms,  but  this  was  found  to  be  of  no  advantage,  though  no 
comment  was  made  indicating  that  it  was  of  any  particular  disad- 
vantage. 

All  of  the  foregoing  work  was  again  repeated  the  following  year.6 
Practically  the  same  conditions  were  met  as  in  the  previous  experi- 
ments, cheese  being  cured  at  60°,  65°,  and  70°  F.  The  same  results 
were  obtained,  and,  as  before,  cheese  held  at  a  warmer  temperature 
for  one  week  before  going  into  colder  rooms  showed  no  benefit  derived 
from  this  process.  In  all  of  these  experiments  the  score  for  flavor 
had  been  about  the  same  for  the  different  temperatures,  but  the 
texture  was  very  markedly  improved  at  the  lowest  temperature. 

The  }rear  following  a  partial  report  was  made  on  the  employment 
of  a  40-degree  temperature  for  curing. c  While  the  experiment  had  not 
been  completed  at  the  time  of  making  the  report,  there  was  evidence 
that  the  cheese  carried  at  40°  F.  would  be  better  than  the  control 
cheese  carried  at  65°  F. 

In  a  bulletin  published  in  1902  the  final  results  of  the  work  last 
mentioned  were  given.'*  It  was  stated  that  the  temperature  of  the 
cold  room  averaged  38°  F.  and  that  the  average  temperature  of  the 
warm,  or  control,  room  was  64°  F.  One  cheese  from  each  lot  made 
was  placed  directly  in  the  cold  room,  and  three  others  were  kept  in 
the  warm  room  for  one,  two,  and  three  weeks,  respectively,  and  were 
then  placed  in  the  cold  room.  A  fifth  cheese  was  ripened  in  the  warm 
room.  The  final  scoring  on  these  lots  showed  that  the  cheese  placed 
immediately  in  the  cold  room  was  the  best  of  all,  while  the  cheese 
ripened  in  the  warm  room  was  much  the  poorest  of  any.  The  cheese 
placed  directly  in  the  cold  room  also  lost  less  in  weight  than  the 
others. 

a  Annual  Report,  Ontario  Agricultural  College  and  Experimental  Farm,  1899. 
b  Annual  Report,  Ontario  Agricultural  College  and  Experimental  Farm,  1900. 
c  Annual  Report,  Ontario  Agricultural  College  and  Experimental  Farm,  1901. 
d Bulletin  No.  121,  Ontario  Agricultural  College  and  Experimental  Farm. 
30624— No.  85—06 2 


18  MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 

The  work  of  1902  was  continued  in  1903. a  In  this  series  of  experi- 
ments a  storage  room  cooled  by  natural  ice  to  40°  F.  was  compared 
with  a  mechanically  refrigerated  room  carried  at  the  same  tempera- 
ture. Cheese  was  also  carried  at  50°  F.  All  cheese,  except  as  other- 
wise stated,  was  placed  in  storage  direct  from  the  hoops.  Nine  lots  of 
cheese  were  made  and  some  of  each  stored  in  each  room.  For  com- 
parison a  cheese  from  each  lot  was  held  in  the  warm  room  for  one 
week  and  then  placed  in  the  40-degree  ice-refrigerated  room,  and  one 
cheese  from  each  lot  was  completely  cured  in  the  warm  room,  which 
averaged  above  60°  F.  Nine  other  lots  of  cheese  were  made  and 
stored  in  the  same  way,  except  that  the  cheese  carried  in  the  ordinary 
temperature  for  one  week  was  placed  in  the  mechanically  refrigerated 
room  instead  of  the  room  cooled  by  natural  ice.  In  all  of  these 
tests  the  cheese  placed  immediately  in  the  40-degree  room  was 
slightly  better  at  the  end  of  the  test  than  any  other,  while  the  cheese 
ripened  at  the  ordinary  curing-room  temperature  was  of  noticeably 
poorer  quality  in  both  flavor  and  texture.  The  cheese  held  in  the 
warm  room  for  a  week  was  practically  as  good  as  that  going 
immediately  into  storage.  There  was  found  to  be  very  little  differ- 
ence in  the  effects  of  mechanical  and  ice  refrigeration  on  the  quality 
of  the  cheese,  the  small  difference  being  in  favor  of  the  artificially 
refrigerated  rooms.  There  was  less  shrinkage  in  the  ice-cooled  rooms, 
because  of  the  higher  humidity,  which  probably  amounted  almost  to 
saturation.  None  of  the  cheese  was  paraffined.  In  connection  with 
these  experiments  it  was  stated  that  cheese  could  be  held  for  a  week 
before  going  into  cold-storage  rooms  without  damage,  provided  the 
temperature  did  not  go  above  90°  F. 

The  Ontario  experiments  were  continued  in  1904.ft  Several  new 
features  were  introduced  in  this  series  of  tests.  Professor  Dean  tried 
the  effect  of  varying  quantities  of  rennet  and  also  compared  boxed 
cheese  with  cheese  placed  on  the  shelf  and  handled  in  the  old  way — 
that  is,  turned  and  rubbed  occasionally.  He  also  again  compared  ice 
and  mechanical  refrigeration  in  these  tests.  Fourteen  lots  of  cheese 
were  made  up,  seven  lots  with  3 \  ounces  of  rennet  to  1,000  pounds  of 
milk  and  seven  with  6§  ounces  of  rennet  to  1,000  pounds  of  milk. 
These  were  carried  at  a  temperature  of  40°  F.,  being  divided  between 
the  ice-chilled  and  the  mechanically  refrigerated  rooms.  The  score 
of  the  cheese  showed  no  practical  difference  in  the  quality  when  made 
from  varying  quantities  of  rennet. 

For  the  boxing  and  shelf  test  nine  lots  of  cheese  were  made  and 
were  divided  between  the  ice  and  mechanical  storage  rooms.  Half 
of  the  cheese  was  kept  on  the  shelf,  and  half  was  kept  in  boxes  without 
turning.     The  results  showed  a  slightly  greater  shrinkage  on  the  shelf 

a  Annual  Report,  Ontario  Agricultural  College  and  Experimental  Farm,  1903. 
b  Annual  Report,  Ontario  Agricultural  College  and  Experimental  Farm,  1904. 


COMMENTS    ON    WISCONSIN    AND    CANADIAN    WORK.  19 

and  a  slightly  greater  tendency  to  mold  in  the  boxes.  There  was  no 
difference  in  the  quality  in  either  case. 

Six  lots  of  cheese  were  made  up  for  temperature  experiments. 
Cheese  was  carried  at  28°,  40°,  50°,  and  55°  F.  The  cheese  ripened 
at  40°  F.  scored  slightly  higher,  hut  the  difference  was  very  unimpor- 
tant and  was  well  within  the  limits  of  probable  error  of  the  judges. 

For  the  ice  and  mechanical  storage  test  thirteen  days'  make  of 
cheese  was  used.  One  cheese  from  each  day's  make  was  held  at  a 
warm  temperature  for  one  week  and  then  placed  in  mechanical  storage 
at  a  temperature  of  40°  F.,  and  the  same  plan  was  followed  with  regard 
to  the  ice  storage.  Three  other  cheeses  went  direct  into  storage  from 
the  hoops,  one  in  the  ice  storage  at  40°  F.,  another  in  the  mechanical 
storage  at  the  same  temperature,  and  the  third  in  a  50-degree  room. 
When  these  cheeses  were  scored,  they  showed  very  little  difference  in 
quality,  as  in  the  previous  year's  test,  the  cheese  cured  at  50-degree 
being  slightly  better,  and  the  mechanical  and  ice  refrigeration  show- 
ing no  difference  in  effects,  except  in  the  less  slirinkage  in  the  ice- 
cooled  rooms,  which  was  due  to  the  higher  humidity. 

COMMENTS  ON  THE  WISCONSIN  AND  THE   CANADIAN  WORK. 

As  has  been  heretofore  mentioned,  the  Wisconsin  Station  deserves 
credit  for  having  made  the  preliminary  discoveries  which  indicated  a 
possible  adoption  of  lower  curing  temperatures,  and  it  is  entitled  to 
further  credit  for  having  inaugurated  experiments  along  this  line.  It 
is  probably  true  that  no  two  men  on  the  continent  were  better  quali- 
fied to  have  undertaken  this  pioneer  work  than  Doctors  Babcock  and 
Russell.  The  first  experiments  were  conducted  at  the  station  proper, 
and  as  a  result  of  this  work  certain  recommendations  were  made 
which  have  not  as  yet  been  fully  adopted,  but  which  will  probably 
prove  to  be  the  basis  for  the  treatment  and  handling  of  all  cheese  in 
the  not-far-distant  future.  One  recommendation  was  that  the  cheese 
be  put  into  cold  storage  direct  from  the  hoop,  and  it  was  pointed  out 
that  this  would  check  the  development  of  many  undesirable  ferments 
which  appear  within  a  few  days  or  weeks  after  the  cheese  is  made. 

This  purely  experimental  work  was  supplemented  by  additional 
tests  in  a  regular  cheese  factory.  This  latter  work  approached  very 
closely  actual  commercial  conditions,  and,  as  stated  in  the  reports  of 
the  station,  perhaps  deserves  greater  weight  than  the  previous  work. 
In  fact,  there  was  an  element  of  weakness  in  the  first  work  done, 
because  the  cheese  was  made  up  in  small  vats,  not  all  of  the  cheese 
in  one  test  coming  from  the  same  vat,  thus  leaving  a  decided  possi- 
bility for  variation  in  quality. 

A  number  of  benefits  to  be  derived  from  the  low  temperature  were 
pointed  out.  It  was  shown  that  cheese  made  from  day  to  day  and 
cured  under  these  conditions  showed  greater  uniformity  in  quality, 


20  MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 

this  of  course  being  due  to  the  fact  that  undesirable  qualities  had  very 
little  opportunity  to  develop  under  these  conditions.  It  was  also 
shown  that  the  cheese  lost  much  less  in  weight  when  cured  at  the  low 
temperature.  This  was  a  very  important  point  at  the  time  of  these 
experiments.  Another  point  was  the  longer  period  for  curing  and 
the  consequently  longer  time  during  which  the  cheese  was  fit  for  con- 
sumption. It  would  appear  that  this  was  an  important  point,  but  in 
view  of  market  conditions  it  is  doubtful  if  this  fact  of  longer  keeping  is 
of  as  great  advantage  as  was  at  first  supposed,  except  in  the  carrying 
of  cheese  for  the  winter  and  spring  trade.  It  is  deemed  necessary  by 
cheese  makers  that  all  cheese  of  a  previous  year's  make  be  cleaned  up 
by  about  April  1  to  avoid  a  financial  loss  due  to  the  lower  prices  of  the 
new  cheese,  which  comes  on  the  market  about  this  time  and  which 
appears  to  be  just  as  desirable  to  the  consumer.  A  few  months 
added  to  the  keeping  period  may  be  desirable,  but  one  or  two  years 
would  not  be  considered  by  many  dealers. 

In  the  work  done  at  Guelph,  Canada,  there  were  two  very  com- 
mendable features,  one  being  the  great  number  of  different  days' 
make  which  was  compared.  In  the  experiments  for  1904  alone  42 
lots  of  cheese  were  made  up.  The  other  feature  was  the  fact  that  all 
of  the  cheese  in  a  single  test  came  from  the  same  vat  of  milk.  As  the 
milk  at  Guelph  is  obtained  from  herds  scattered  throughout  a  small 
territory — the  same  condition  that  prevails  hi  the  case  of  a  commercial 
factory — these  experiments  should  have  great  weight.  It  would 
appear  that  the  only  possible  opportunity  for  variation  or  ground  for 
criticism  would  be  on  account  of  the  cbeese  not  being  carried  in  regular 
cold-storage  establishments,  such  as  are  found  in  the  larger  cities  and 
which  are  conducted  upon  a  commercial  scale. 

COMPARISON    OF    ICE    AND   MECHANICAL   REFRIGERATION. 

An  interesting  feature  of  the  Ontario  work  was  a  comparison  of  the 
effect  upon  cheese  of  ice  and  mechanical  refrigeration.  This  was  a 
point  well  worth  investigating,  especially  in  the  days  before  paraffining 
had  become  general.  It  is  difficult,  however,  to  comprehend  how  the 
cheese  could  be  influenced  to  any  appreciable  extent  by  the  fact  that 
one  room  was  cooled  by  ice  and  another  by  some  other  means.  The 
only  probable  variation  in  the  condition  of  the  atmosphere  would  be 
in  the  relatively  higher  humidity  in  the  rooms  cooled  by  ice.  At  the 
present  time,  when  practically  all  the  cheese  that  comes  into  cold 
storage  is  paraffined,  any  variation  in  the  moisture  content  of  the  air 
would  have  no  effect  whatever,  or  certainly  none  that  need  be  taken 
into  consideration.  The  cheese  used  in  the  Canadian  experiments, 
as  well  as  that  used  in  the  Wisconsin  work,  was  not  paraffined,  and  it 
was  thought  probable  that  the  humidity  would  lessen  the  shrinkage 
and  through  this  influence  the  quality.     As  was  brought  out  in  the 


INCREASE  OF  COLD-STORAGE  PLANTS.  21 

experiments,  the  cheese  kept  in  the  ice-cooled  rooms  did  lose  a  little 
less  in  weight,  hut  the  cmality  was  the  same,  as  nearly  as  could  he 
determined  by  the  judges.  A  little  more  trouble  with  mold  was 
experienced  in  the  ice-cooled  room,  due  to  the  humidity  of  the  atmos- 
phere. Since  the  adoption  of  paraffining,  it  is  probable  that  a  high 
humidity  would  he  undesirable  hecause  of  the  possible  effect  it  might 
have  on  the  paraffin.  This  is  merely  assumed  and  has  no  experimental 
foundation,  hut  it  is  entirely  possihle  that  the  effect  would  he  unfavor- 
able. 

INCREASE    OF    COLD-STORAGE    PLANTS    IN    CHEESE    DISTRICTS. 

The  practical  application  of  results  obtained  by  t lie  Wisconsin 
Station  was  indicated  in  the  recommendation  made  by  Doctors 
Bahcock  and  Russell  that  central  curing  rooms  be  built.  These  rooms 
were  designed  to  take  the  place  of  the  ordinary  factory  curing  rooms 
and  were  to  be  situated  close  enough  to  a  number  of  factories  so  that 
the  cheese  could  be  taken  from  such  factories  to  the  curing  room  every 
few  days.  These  rooms  were  to  be  looked  after  by  competent  men 
and  were  to  be  kept  at  temperatures  under  50°  F.  One  such  curing 
room  was  actually  built  at  La  Crosse,  Wis.,  and  was  in  operation  for 
a  short  while,  but  through  some  mismanagement  or  poor  planning  was 
forced  to  cease  operations.  The  further  building  of  such  curing  rooms 
was  probably  stopped  by  the  great  number  of  cold-storage  ware- 
houses, which  were  soon  built  in  the  towns  near  the  cheese  districts. 
In  New  York  such  establishments  are  found  at  Watertown,  Lowville, 
and  Jamestown;  in  Wisconsin  they  are  found  at  Sheboygan,  Fond 
du  Lac,  Plymouth,  and  many  other  places  situated  in  or  near  sections 
of  the  State  devoted  largely  to  the  cheese  industry.  These  storage 
places  did  away  with  the  necessity  for  the  centralized  curing  room, 
though  in  fact  they  are  an  adaptation  of  the  idea  on  a  slightly  different 
business  basis  from  that  which  was  at  first  contemplated.  The  dealers 
who  buy  cheese  direct  from  the  factories  are  located  near  these  storage 
houses,  and  at  Plymouth,  Wis.,  half  a  dozen  of  the  largest  cheese  firms 
in  the  world  have  their  main  offices,  though  the  town  itself  is  only  a 
small  country  village.  This  is  perhaps  the  most  marked  example  of 
the  present  condition. 

With  the  building  of  these  storage  houses  near  the  cheese  factories 
it  naturally  followed  that  cheese  commenced  to  find  its  way  from  the 
factories  into  the  hands  of  the  dealers  much  sooner  after  leaving  the 
hoop.  This  tendency  has  increased  until  now  the  cheese  is  under  two 
weeks  of  age,  as  a  rule,  when  placed  in  storage ;  in  fact,  it  is  as  young  as 
the  dealers  will  accept  it  at  the  present  time,  for  reasons  which  will  be 
mentioned  hereafter.  This  is  the  logical  outcome  of  the  whole  ques- 
tion of  the  cold  curing  of  cheese.  There  will  undoubtedly  be  changes 
in  details,  but  the  main  points  will  probably  not  be  changed  under  the 
present  conditions.     Curing  in  the  cheese  factory  is  a  thing  of  the 


22  MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 

past  in  sections  closely  connected  by  rail  with  towns  having  cold- 
storage  houses.  The  tendency  is  for  the  dealer  to  take  the  cheese 
closer  to  the  hoop,  and  anything  that  will  show  how  this  can  safely  be 
done  will  hasten  the  adoption  of  the  recommendation  and  idea 
advanced  by  Doctors  Babcock  and  Russell — namely,  that  cheese 
should  go  into  storage  the  day  it  is  taken  from  the  press. 

COMPARATIVE  ADVANTAGES  OF  COLD  AND  COOL  CURING. 

The  outcome  of  the  experiments  in  Canada  has  been  a  little  different 
from  that  of  the  Wisconsin  experiments.  In  fact  there  are  many 
things  regarding  the  situation  as  it  is  found  in  Canada  which  are  very 
difficult  to  explain.  The  work  done  at  Guelph  would  seem  to  have 
indicated  that  cold  storage  was  the  only  correct  way  of  handling 
cheese.  Canada  has  a  department  of  agriculture,  with  a  dair}?-  com- 
missioner who  has  always  been  actively  interested  and  taken  a  leading 
part  in  the  development  of  the  cheese  industry  of  the  Dominion.  On 
the  basis  of  results  obtained  in  tests  that  were  carried  on  in  various 
factories,  cooperative  cool-curing  rooms  were  recommended.  As  has 
been  heretofore  explained,  these  rooms  were  to  carry  a  temperature 
above  50°  F. ;  in  fact,  in  practice  they  averaged  about  58°  F.,  according 
to  the  reports.  These  rooms  were  necessarily  cooled  by  artificial 
means  during  a  part  of  the  year.  In  advocating  this  cool-curing 
system  in  preference  to  cold  curing,  three  arguments  were  advanced. 
One  was  that  the  expense  of  holding  the  rooms  at  the  higher  tempera- 
ture is  much  less  than  would  be  required  for  a  temperature  of  40°  F.; 
another  was  that  the  time  required  for  curing  is  only  about  one  week 
longer  in  the  cool  rooms  than  would  be  necessary  in  the  ordinary 
factory  curing  rooms;  while  the  third  argument  was  that  in  the  cool 
rooms  cheese  developed  a  decided  flavor  which  was  necessary  for  the 
export  trade. 

On  the  recommendation  of  the  Canadian  department  at  least  three 
such  rooms  have  been  built  in  as  many  different  sections.  They 
appear  to  have  given  perfect  satisfaction,  and  cheese  cured  in  these 
rooms  was  of  course  of  a  much  more  uniform  quality  and  the  shrink- 
age much  less  than  with  the  old  conditions  of  factorv  curing  rooms. 
The  general  scheme  was  to  pay  for  storage  about  what  was  saved  in 
the  shrinkage.  This  saving  did  not  quite  pay  for  the  actual  cost  of 
maintaining  the  rooms,  but  it  is  probable  that  if  the  better  quality  of 
the  cheese  due  to  being  cured  under  such  favorable  conditions  could  be 
taken  into  consideration  the  benefits  derived  would  undoubtedly  pay 
or  more  than  pay  for  the  actual  cost.  A  number  of  factories  patronize 
each  of  these  cool  rooms,  teams  being  furnished  to  collect  the  cheese 
practically  every  day  by  making  a  circuit  of  the  factories.  This  plan 
gets  the  cheese  into  a  favorable  temperature  almost  as  it  comes  from 
the  press,  and  is  undoubtedly  a  desirable  feature. 


COMPARISON    OF    COLD    AND    COOL    CURING.  23 

One  of  the  arguments  in  favor  of  the  cool  rooms  and  which  has  been 
urged  in  this  country  against  the  employment  of  cold  storage  for  cur- 
ing cheese  is  based  on  the  fact  that  perhaps  the  best  cheese  made  in  the 
course  of  the  season  comes  from  the  factories  in  the  latter  part  of  Sep- 
tember and  during  October.  In  this  connection  English  Cheddar 
cheese,  to  which  reference  is  often  made,  is  cured  at  about  the  same 
temperature  as  would  prevail  in  the  American  cheese  districts  in 
October,  which  would  be  about  60°  F.  This  argument  is  very 
unscientific  to  say  the  least.  There  are  other  probable  reasons  for 
the  superiority  of  our  September  and  October  cheese.  This  season  is 
especially  good  for  the  production  of  very  fine  milk ;  nights  are  cool  and 
the  milk  easily  kept,  and  the  cows  have  advanced  in  lactation  until 
there  is  a  relatively  high  percentage  of  fat  in  the  milk.  The  English 
Cheddar,  the  superior  qualities  of  which  are  probably  much  due  to 
imagination,  is  made  under  almost  the  same  conditions  of  climate  as 
prevail  in  this  country  in  the  early  autumn.  The  English  summers 
are  very  cool,  giving  a  fine  opportunity  for  producing  good  milk;  and 
the  quality  of  the  English  cheese,  if  as  good  as  claimed,  is  undoubtedly 
due  to  this  fact  rather  than  to  any  superiority  of  curing  temperature 
over  the  regular  cold  storage- 
It  is  doubtful  if  the  argument  advanced  concerning  the  comparative 
cost  of  "cool-curing"  rooms  and  "cold-curing"  rooms  has  any  material 
foundation.  In  theory  it  would,  of  course,  cost  more  to  hold  a  room  at 
4O0  F.  than  at  55°  F.,  but  considering  the  amount  of  cheese  that  even 
a  small  cold-storage  house  will  hold  and  the  relatively  small  cost  per 
pound  for  this  storing,  it  is  doubtful  if  the  comparative  cost  would 
have  any  great  influence.  It  seems  that  no  figures  have  been  com- 
piled to  show  what  has  been  the  actual  cost  of  storage  in  the  cool  rooms 
per  pound  of  cheese.  The  Dairy  Division  of  this  Department  re- 
quested such  information  from  the  Dominion  government,  but  was 
told  that  it  was  not  available.  However,  prices  charged  for  the  stor- 
age of  cheese  in  various  cold-storage  houses  in  this  country  were 
obtained.  One  storage  firm  quotes  one-fourth  of  a  cent  per  pound  for 
five  months  from  June  1  and  one-half  a  cent  per  pound  for  nine 
months  from  June  1.  A  large  Chicago  house  charges  16  cents  per  100 
pounds  for  the  first  sixty  days  or  any  part  thereof  and  8  cents  per  100 
pounds  for  each  succeeding  thirty  days.  This  amounts  to  about  one- 
twentieth  to  one-eighth  of  a  cent  per  pound  per  month.  This  would 
appear  to  be  such  a  reasonable  charge  that  it  would  be  difficult  for  any 
other  system  to  show  any  appreciable  advantage. 

The  contention  that  the  comparative  difference  in  the  time  of  curing- 
is  considerable  does  not  appear  to  have  any  real  foundation.  In  gen- 
eral terms  it  was  claimed  that  the  cheese  in  the  cool-curing  rooms 
required  but  about  one  week  longer  for  curing  than  would  be  necessary 
under  factory  conditions,  while  it  was  further  claimed  that  cheese 


24  MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 

carried  at  40°  F.  required  about  four  times  as  long  a  period  for  ripening. 
The  latter  part  of  this  contention  is  probably  true,  as  it  was  shown  by 
the  Wisconsin  Station  through  chemical  analyses  made  during  the 
course  of  ripening  that  cheese  held  at  40°  F.  broke  down  in  four  weeks 
to  about  the  same  extent  to  which  cheese  carried  at  70°  F.  would  break 
down  in  one  week,  and  according  to  the  reports  of  the  same  station 
there  was  a  decided  difference  in  the  rate  of  curing  of  cheese  held  at 
55°  and  at  65°  F. — much  more,  in  fact,  than  was  claimed  in  the  argu-. 
ments  for  the  cool-curing  rooms. 

In  connection  with  the  claim  that  the  cheese  cured  in  the  cool-curing 
rooms  had  a  more  desirable  flavor  than  cheese  cured  in  the  cold-curing 
rooms,  there  seems  to  be  room  for  a  decided  difference  of  opinion.  As 
has  been  previously  mentioned,  the  market  demand  is  growing  rapidly 
toward  a  cheese  of  mild  flavor.  This  will  be  mentioned  hereafter,  but 
in  this  connection  it  may  be  stated  that  the  scoring  of  the  cheese  in 
the  experiments  conducted  at  Guelph  was  done  by  well-known 
Canadian  buyers  and  exporters,  and  in  their  opinion  the  cheese  cured 
at  40°  F.  was  slightly  superior  in  quality  to  that  cured  at  60°  F. 

The  Canadian  cool-curing  rooms  attempt  to  pay  expenses  by  the 
saving  in  shrinkage.  In  cold  curing,  as  now  generally  practiced  in 
this  country,  cheese  is  paraffined  as  it  goes  into  storage,  thus  prevent- 
ing practically  all  shrinkage.  Otherwise  the  shrinkage  would  amount 
to  about  1  pound  or  more  in  20,  and  at  10  cents  a  pound  this  saving  in 
shrinkage  would  be  sufficient  to  carry  the  cheese  in  storage  for  nine 
months  at  the  prevailing  rates. 

Evidently  one  fact  that  has  not  been  taken  into  consideration  is  that 
a  temperature  of  55°  or  60°  F.  will  not  check  many  undesirable  fer- 
ments which  may  occur  in  the  ripening  cheese.  It  was  emphasized  by 
Babcock  and  Russell  that  one  of  the  advantages  in  a  cold-curing  room 
lay  in  the  fact  that  many  undesirable  qualities  due  to  conditions  which 
existed  at  the  time  of  making  could  be  almost  entirely  overcome  by 
the  use  of  very  cold  temperatures  in  curing.  This  would  not  hold  true 
for  the  cool-curing  rooms.  It  would  be  impossible,  owing  to  these 
factory  conditions,  to  get  such  an  even  quality  of  cheese  in  the  cool 
rooms  as  could  be  secured  by  the  use  of  the  lower  temperatures. 

COOPERATIVE  WORK  BY  THE  DEPARTMENT  OF  AGRICULTURE  AND  STATE 

STATIONS. 

At  the  suggestion  of  the  Wisconsin  Experiment  Station  the  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture,  through  the  Dairy  Division  of  the  Bureau  of 
Animal  Industry,  in  1902  entered  into  a  cooperative  arrangement  for 
conducting  some  commercial  experiments  on  the  cold  curing  of 
cheese. a     The  station  at  first  contemplated  that  all  the  work  should  be 


a  Bulletin  No.  49,  Bureau  of  Animal  Industry. 


COOPERATIVE    WORK    WITH    STATE    STATIONS.  25 

undertaken  in  that  State  and  the  cheese  made  in  factories  over  which 
the  station  could  exercise  a  certain  degree  of  control.  Upon  the  sug- 
gestion of  the  Dairy  Division,  however,  the  work  was  broadened  so  as 
to  include  the  New  York  State  Station  at  Geneva,  and  was  further 
extended  to  include  cheese  from  a  number  of  different  States,  namely, 
Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  Michigan,  Illinois,  and  Iowa.  Storage  facilities 
for  the  Eastern  States  were  secured  in  New  York  City  and  for  the 
Western  States  at  Waterloo,  Wis. 

Different  types  and  styles  of  American  cheese  were  gathered  from 
the  factories  scattered  throughout  the  States  mentioned.  This  cheese 
was  stored,  without  paraffining,  at  40°,  50°,  and  60°  F.  Three  judges 
scored  the  cheese  in  charge  of  the  Wisconsin  Station,  and  a  different  set 
of  three  judges  scored  the  cheese  in  charge  of  the  New  York  Station. 
Mr.  Baer,  expert  cheese  maker  for  the  Wisconsin  Station  and  univer- 
versity,  made  periodical  inspections  of  the  Waterloo  cheese  in  addition 
to  the  regular  scoring  by  the  judges.  The  Wisconsin  cheese  was 
scored  at  the  end  of  three  months  and  again  at  the  end  of  five  months. 
The  score  showed  a  slight  difference  in  favor  of  the  cheese  kept  at  40° 
F.  This  difference  was  greater  at  the  end  of  five  months  than  at  the. 
end  of  three  months,  though  at  neither  time  did  the  average  variation 
reach  a  total  of  4  points  out  of  a  possible  100.  The  market  value  was 
placed  on  the  cheese  by  the  judges  and  showed  slightly  in  favor  of  the 
cheese  stored  at  40°  F. 

The  cheese  in  charge  of  the  New  York  Station  was  scored  at  five 
different  times — when  fresh,  at  the  end  of  two  months,  at  the  end  of 
four  months,  at  the  end  of  six  months,  and  again  in  eight  months. 
The  cheese  held  at  60°  F.  was  sold  at  the  end  of  four  months,  as  it  had 
commenced  to  deteriorate.  The  lowest  score  was  given  to  the  cheese 
held  at  50°  F.  at  the  end  of  six  months.  The  cheese  held  at  40°  F. 
gave  a  slightly  higher  maximum  scoring,  and,  as  had  been  demon- 
strated in  previous  experiments,  remained  in  good  condition  very 
much  longer. 

In  addition  to  this  regular  work,  one  of  the  New  York  City  cheese 
dealers  furnished  a  quantity  of  cheese  to  be  used  in  paraffining  tests. 
Half  of  this  was  paraffined  and  half  remained  unparaffined.  Both 
lots  were  divided  between  the  40°,  50°,  and  60°  rooms.  The  results 
showed  a  decided  saving  in  shrinkage  in  the  paraffined  cheese  and  no 
effect  on  quality. 

There  are  several  things  connected  with  the  scoring  in  New  York 
City  which  are  a  little  difficult  to  understand.  The  cheese  when  green 
scored  practically  as  high  as  when  thoroughly  ripened.  No  explana- 
tion was  offered,  and  evidently  none  was  called  for  on  this  point,  but  it 
is  difficult  to  understand  why  such  a  high  score  should  have  been  given 
at  that  time.  Tt  is  impossible  for  cheese  fresh  from  the  press  to  have 
the  characteristics  of  a  desirable  texture.     It  has  no  developed  flavor 


26  MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 

and  its  qualities  at  best  must  have  been  purely  negative.  Another 
point  in  connection  with  the  scoring  was  the  fact  that  such  small  differ- 
ences in  quality  were  noted  between  the  different  lots  of  cheese.  The 
cheese  was  selected  from  a  number  of  different  factories,  was  subject 
to  adverse  influences  before  arriving  in  New  York,  and  it  is  improbable 
that  it  could  have  been  so  nearly  of  the  same  quality.  The  explanation 
of  this  point,  if  there  be  any  explanation,  is  probably  that  all  three 
judges  were  commercial  men,  that  all  of  the  cheese,  according  to  com- 
mercial standards,  was  well  above  the  quality  demanded  for  the  high- 
est prices,  and  consequently  the  judges  did  not  discriminate  to  any 
extent  within  these  limits.  From  a  commercial  standpoint  the  scor- 
ing and  its  results  were  undoubtedly  entirely  satisfactory,  but  from  an 
experimental  point  of  view  it  would  appear  that  there  was  something 
more  to  be  desired. 

Another  point  in  connection  with  this  cooperative  work  as  affecting 
both  New  York  and  Wisconsin  and  which  might  be  considered  subject 
to  some  criticism  was  the  fact  that  the  cheese  for  these  experiments 
was  obtained  in  quantities  varying  from  500  to  1 ,000  pounds  from  each 
factory.  It  is  extremely  improbable  that  in  the  case  of  the  larger 
amounts  coming  from  a  single  factory  the  cheese  was  all  made  in  one 
vat.  It  would  seem  that  a  thoroughly  satisfactory  test  would  have 
required  that  the  cheese  from  each  and  every  factory  should  be  divided 
between  the  different  temperatures  selected  for  storing  on  the  basis  of 
the  vat  in  which  the  cheese  was  made — that  is,  that  each  vat  of  milk 
should  have  been  considered  by  itself  in  dividing  the  cheese  for  the 
different  temperatures  of  storing.  Two  vats  of  milk  on  the  same  day 
can  easily  vary  as  much  in  quality  as  the  milk  of  widely  separated  days. 
It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  where  more  than  one  vat  is  run  in  a  fac- 
tory on  the  same  day  cheese  of  the  very  highest  quality  may  be  made 
in  one  vat  and  of  exceptionally  poor  quality  in  another.  In  these 
experiments,  in  a  number  of  cases  at  least,  it  appears  as  though  the 
cheese  from  each  factory  was  lumped  together  without  reference  to 
whether  it  was  made  in  one  or  two  vats,  and  it  is  quite  likely  that  some 
variation  in  results  was  due  to  this  fact,  as  such  could  easily  have  been 
the  case  had  the  cheese  varied  as  much  in  quality  as  it  frequently  does 
under  such  conditions. 

This  cooperative  work  was  impaired  somewhat,  in  the  writer's 
opinion,  by  the  insistence  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture  that 
the  cheese  should  be  gathered  from  so  many  different  sources.  It 
was,  of  course,  impossible  to  supervise  or  control  the  making  of  the 
cheese  under  such  conditions.  Then,  too,  such  long  shipments  were 
required  in  many  instances  that  the  cheese  was  several  days  old 
before  going  into  storage.  There  is  no  question  but  the  work  would 
have  been  much  more  valuable  could  it  have  been  done  in  one  locality 
where  some  direct  observations  could  have  been  made  on  the  manu- 


MINOR    EXPERIMENTS.  27 

facture.  Care  was  used  in  selecting  the  factories  from  which  the 
cheese  was  to  come,  but  this  did  not  overcome  the  weak  points  in 
the  general  plan. 

MINOR    EXPERIMENTS    BY   THE    IOWA    AND    NEW    YORK    STATIONS. 

In  addition  to  the  more  extensive  experiments  conducted  in  Wis- 
consin and  Canada  and  the  cooperative  work  in  which  the  United 
States  Department  of  Agriculture  took  part,  some  minor  work  on 
the  effect  of  temperature  in  cheese  curing  has  been  done  at  the  Iowa 
Station"  and  at  the  New  York  State  Station.6  These  experiments 
were  concluded  before  the  regular  cold-storage  work  was  undertaken 
in  Wisconsin  and  Canada. 

The  work  in  Iowa  was  partially  in  cooperation  with  Canada.  Cheese 
was  shipped  from  Ontario  and  cured  at  a  temperature  of  about  60°  F. 
Other  cheese  was  cured  at  55°  F.  In  another  test,  fresh  cheese  was 
held  at  90°  F.  for  a  few  days  after  making  and  then  cured  at  a  lower 
temperature.  It  was  concluded  from  these  experiments  that  the 
exposure  to  a  high  artificial  temperature  for  several  days  before  going 
into  the  colder  rooms  had  no  bad  effect. 

In  the  New  York  State  Station  test  temperatures  of  55°,  60°,  65°, 
70°,  75°,  and  80°  F.  were  employed.  The  cheese  cured  at  55°  F. 
scored  7  points  higher  than  that  cured  at  65°  F.  and  above. 

Besides  the  conclusion  announced  as  a  result  of  the  Iowa  experi- 
ments in  cool  curing,  to  the  effect  that  cheese  could  be  held  at  a 
relatively  high  temperature  several  days  before  going  into  the  colder 
rooms  without  injury,  this  same  statement  was  made  as  a  result  of 
some  of  the  Canadian  experiments,  and  was  repeated  by  the  Wisconsin 
workers  in  connection  with  their  recommendation  for  a  central  curing 
plant.  Mention  has  previously  been  made  of  the  recommendation 
of  the  Wisconsin  Station  that  cheese  should  go  into  storage  direct 
from  the  hoop,  and  it  would  appear  that  these  statements  were  rather 
inconsistent.  There  is  no  doubt  that  all  these  investigators  were 
in  error  in  their  statements,  as  a  general  proposition,  that  cheese 
could  be  held  at  a  high  temperature  even  for  a  few  days  without 
injury.  It  might  be  true  of  cheese  which  had  been  made  from  pure 
milk,  under  exceptionally  good  conditions;  but  where  undesirable 
flavors  have  a  tendency  to  develop,  any  period  of  high  temperature, 
no  matter  how  short,  after  leaving  the  press  would  undoubtedly 
give  undesirable  results.  The  fact  that  in  many  cases  the  cheese 
which  went  direct  into  storage  was  given  a  higher  score  than  that 
which  remained  in  the  ordinary  curing  rooms  for  from  "one  to  two 
weeks  is  proof  of  this  statement.     Although  some  cheese  can  stand 

"Bulletin  No.  57,  Iowa  Experiment  Station. 
6  Bulletin  No.  184,  New  York  State  Station. 


28  MANUFACTURE  AND  CURING  OF  CHEESE. 

a  warm  temperature  without  injury  and  could  even  be  cured  at  a 
temperature  of  70°  F.  and  come  out  with  an  almost  perfect  score, 
as  has  been  shown  on  many  occasions,  this  is  no  proof  that  the  warm 
temperature  is  desirable  for  curing. 

REPORT    OF   RECENT   EXPERIMENTS    BY   THE    DEPARTMENT    OF 

AGRICULTURE. 

The  Dairy  Division  thought  it  wise  to  conduct  further  experiments 
in  cold  curing,  as  the  only  commercial  test  made  in  which  the  Depart- 
ment cooperated  was  so  unsatisfactory  that  it  did  not  lessen  the 
desirability  for  further  work  of  this  nature.  Again,  market  condi- 
tions had  changed  so  radically  that  the  work  performed  and  the 
conclusions  drawn  therefrom,  which  might  have  been  entirely  satis- 
factory a  few  years  ago,  would  not  apply  to  present  conditions. 

A  number  of  questions  have  been  advanced  by  dealers  who  utilize 
cold  storage  in  regard  to  recommendations  made  on  the  basis  of  pre- 
vious experiments  to  the  effect  that  cheese  should  go  into  storage 
direct  from  the  hoop.  The  dealers  have  been  afraid  to  adopt  this 
view  entirely,  though  the  general  method  of  handling  is  perhaps 
growing  slowly  in  this  direction.  Perhaps  the  reason  advanced  by 
most  dealers  against  buying  perfectly  fresh  cheese  is  that  it  is  impos- 
sible to  tell,  when  a  cheese  is  inspected  too  young,  just  how  it  will 
develop.  Any  bad  qualities,  or  at  least  a  few  of  the  bad  qualities, 
which  are  likely  to  show  in  the  cured  product  can  not  be  detected 
in  a  cheese  a  day  old.  The  most  important  of  these  possibly  injurious 
qualities  is  in  connection  with  the  development  of  acid,  though  unde- 
sirable flavors  would  perhaps  be  mentioned  by  many  of  the  dealers. 
It  is  well  known  that  a  high-acid  cheese  appears  perfectly  normal  as 
it  comes  from  the  press,  and  the  fact  that  there  is  too  much  acid 
does  not  show  until  the  cheese  is  at  least  a  week  old  or  even  two 
weeks  old.  In  certain  seasons  of  the  year  this  is  a  fault  that  is  very 
likely  to  occur  at  times  in  all  factories,  and  as  a  high-acid  cheese 
brings  a  much  lower  market  price  the  dealers  have  a  just  reason  for 
being  suspicious  of  fresh  cheese.  The  contention  that  other  faults 
may  develop  will  not  be  so  difficult  to  overcome.  It  has  already 
been  proven  that  cold  storage  checks  a  great  majority  of  the  unde- 
sirable ferments,  and  a  fault  which  is  not  noticeable  in  the  green 
cheese  will  not  be  likely  to  develop  after  the  cheese  is  placed  in 
storage  at  a  temperature  too  low  for  bacteriological  changes.  This 
needs  to  be  demonstrated  perhaps  a  little  further  and  to  be  impressed 
upon  the  Thinds  of  the  dealers.  The  work  heretofore  conducted  has 
been  almost  without  exception  with  a  very  high-grade  product.  In 
previous  tests  the  cheese  ripened  at  the  ordinary  curing-room  tem- 
peratures rated  above  the  requirements  for  the  highest  market  price, 
and  because  of  this  the  experiments  did  not  demonstrate  the  great 
advantages  of  the  early  application  of  cold  temperatures. 


RECENT    EXPERIMENTS    BY    THE    DEPARTMENT.  29 

TRADE    CONDITIONS    AND    PRACTICES. 

Before  undertaking  the  work  covered  by  this  report  a  very  careful 
investigation  of  conditions  affecting  the  cheese  industry  was  made. 
This  investigation  showed  that  the  practice  of  putting  cheese  into  cold 
storage  before  it  was  cured  had  become  almost  universal.  Very  few 
factories  throughout  the  cheese  districts  of  New  York  and  Wisconsin 
keep  the  cheese  on  hand  for  a  longer  period  than  two  weeks.  This 
means  that  the  ripening  process  has  progressed  very  little  before  the 
cheese  goes  into  storage,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  curing,  if  it  takes 
place  at  all,  must  be  done  at  the  low  temperature. 

There  was,  however,  within  narrow  limits,  considerable  variation  in 
the  age  at  which  the  cheese  was  placed  in  storage.  Some  dealers  were 
willing  to  take  it  when  one  week  old,  while  others  insisted  that  it  be 
two  weeks  old.  The  time  varied  somewhat,  however,  with  the  market 
demands  and  the  season  of  the  year.  It  was  an  open  secret  that  at 
certain  periods  when  cheese  was  scarce  and  the  demand  insistent 
cheese  would  be  taken  when  four  da)'s  old  or  even  less,  though  this  was 
not  put  into  storage,  but  as  a  rule  was  shipped  immediately  to  the 
consumer. 

The  temperatures  employed  at  the  different  storage  houses  showed 
considerable  variation.  It  appeared  that  at  some  a  temperature  as 
low  as  30°  F.  was  used,  while  at  others  the  temperature  employed  was 
slightly  above  40°  F.,  a  majority  ranging  from  about  34°  to  36°  F. 

Xo  reason  could  ever  be  obtained  why  any  one  establishment 
employed  a  particular  temperature,  the  managers  of  those  using  the 
lower  temperatures  simply  stating  that  the  temperature  was  as  low  as 
possible  without  danger  of  freezing  the  cheese. 

PLAN    OF   THE    WORK. 

In  planning  for  the  work  in  view,  the  points  brought  out  in  previous 
investigations  served  as  a  basis  for  the  experiment.  As  the  custom 
of  curing  cheese  in  the  factory  curing  room  had  practically  ceased  to 
exist,  there  was  no  reason  for  making  any  particular  effort  to  demon- 
strate the  superiority  of  cold  curing  over  the  old  method.  It  seemed 
to  have  been  sufficiently  demonstrated  both  in  this  country  and  in 
Canada  that  a  temperature  of  50°  F.  or  lower  was  the  most  satisfac- 
tory for  cheese  ripening,  so  no  particular  weight  was  placed  on  any 
further  demonstration  of  this  point,  though  a  few  cheeses  were  carried 
in  the  factory  curing  room  to  show  what  a  long  exposure  to  high  tem- 
peratures might  develop  in  a  cheese  which  would  otherwise  have  been 
of  a  high  quality. 

As  the  temperatures  employed  by  different  storage  houses  varied 
from  about  30°  to  40°  F.,  two  temperatures  were  selected  for  our 
work — namely,  32°  and  40°  F.,and  as  cheese  is  placed  in  storage  at 


30  MANUFACTURE    AND    CUTCING    OF    CHEFSE. 

various  ages,  in  these  experiments  cheese  fresh  from  the  press  and  at 
one  and  two  weeks  of  age  was  stored  in  rooms  of  different  temperatures. 

There  has  heen  considerable  discussion  as  to  the  effect  on  ripening 
of  different  styles,  shapes,  and  sizes  of  cheese.  It  seems  to  have  been 
demonstrated  in  Canada  on  one  or  two  occasions,  and  also  in  the  coop- 
erative experiments  hereinbefore  mentioned  in  which  the  Dairy 
Division  took  part,  that  the  size  of  the  cheese  had  very  little  influence 
on  its  quality.  There  is  a  popular  belief,  however,"  that  the  large 
Cheddar  cheese  weighing  from  60  to  100  pounds  develops  a  better 
texture  and  perhaps  a  better  flavor  than  smaller  types.  This  is 
extremely  doubtful  when  considered  in  the  light  of  actual  knowledge. 
The  size  of  the  cheese  was  given  no  consideration,  as  it  was  believed 
that  it  would  have  no  important  bearing  upon  this  general  problem. 
If  cold  storage  benefits  a  small  cheese,  it  should  certainly  benefit  a 
large  one,  and  vice  versa.  The  only  exception  that  could  possibl)-  be 
made  to  this  statement  would  be  in  connection  with  the  possible  varia- 
tion in  water  content  of  the  small  and  large  types.  The  small  cheeses 
are  as  a  rule  not  subjected  to  so  great  pressure  as  are  the  large  ones,  but 
even  if  this  were  not  the  case  it  is  doubtful  if  the  amount  of  pressure 
applied  plays  any  important  part  in  the  water  content  of  the  cheese. 
Analyses  go  to  show  that  small  types  of  cheese  possess  about  the  same 
percentage  of  water  as  large  types.  For  the  experiments  the  "Daisy" 
style  of  cheese  was  chosen.  It  is  about  halfway  between  the  extremes 
of  size  represented  by  the  old-fashioned  "Cheddar"  and  the  "Young 
America."  It  is,  moreover,  an  extremely  popular  size,  often  bringing 
in  the  regular  market  as  high  as  a  cent  a  pound  more  than  the  other 
styles.  It  is  shaped  about  like  the  old  styles  of  cheese,  and  is  of  suffi- 
cient size  to  permit  heavy  pressure. 

In  selecting  a  place  for  the  experiments  the  ground  was  gone  over 
carefully  and  a  number  of  things  were  taken  into  consideration. 
Previous  work  has  usually  been  carried  out  with  the  factor}7  and  place 
of  storage  so  widely  separated  that  accurate  work  was  impossible. 
It  was  impossible  for  the  man  in  charge  of  the  work  to  look  after 
the  details  of  the  storage,  and  the  distance  did  not  permit  of  cheese 
being  taken  direct  from  the  hoop  and  put  into  storage  the  same  day. 

In  the  first  place  it  was  desired  that  this  work  should  be  put  on  a 
commercial  basis  as  far  as  possible  and  that  the  cheese  should  be made 
in  a  commercial  factory  representative  of  a  large  number  of  factories. 
To  do  this  required  that  the  work  of  both  making  and  storing  should 
be  done  in  some  rural  district.  But  two  suitable  locations  could  be 
found — Utica,  N.  Y.,  and  Plymouth,  Wis.  The  storage  plants  at 
these  points  employed  mechanical  refrigeration,  which  permitted 
variation  in  temperature.  A  number  of  storage  establishments  in 
both  Wisconsin  and  New  York  used  natural  ice  and  were  not  arranged 
to  allow  any  great  variation  in  the  temperature  of  different  rooms  or 


DETAILS    OF    RECENT    EXPERIMENTS.  31 

to  secure  constant  temperature  in  the  same  rooms.  The  Plymouth 
storage  warehouse  is  situated  in  the  heart  of  a  region  devoted  almost 
exclusively  to  the  cheese  industry.  Perhaps  25  factories  of  large  size 
are  to  be  found  within  a  radius  of  5  miles.  This  was  considered  the 
best  location,  and  very  satisfactory  arrangements  were  made  with  the 
proprietors  of  the  storage  establishment  located  at  that  place.  The 
factory  selected  was  only  3  miles  from  the  storage  house,  was  the 
largest  factory  in  the  district,  receiving  15,000  pounds  of  milk  per  day, 
and  was  owned  and  operated  by  an  unusually  successful  cheese  maker. 
The  milk  received  at  this  factory  was  of  about  the  same  quality  and 
sanitary  condition  as  would  be  found  in  a  majority  of  the  factories 
in  the  district.  The  factory  itself  was  not  a  model,  as  that  term 
would  ordinarily  be  understood,  but  it  was  a  good,  practical  estab- 
lishment, with  good  equipment  and  satisfactory  sanitary  surround- 
ings. The  maker  was  a  man  familiar  with  the  cheese  business  in 
nearly  every  phase,  and  was  able  to  give  most  excellent  advice  and 
assistance. 

The  Wisconsin  Dairymen's  Association  was  very  naturally  inter- 
ested in  the  work  that  was  being  conducted  within  the  State,  and 
when  requested  gave  the  services  of  its  traveling  cheese  instructor  on 
two  occasions  to  serve  as  a  check  on  the  work  being  done.  This 
was  thought  desirable  in  order  to  make  the  cheese  representative  of 
the  whole  State  rather  than  of  one  locality  or  factory. 

In  these  experiments  it  was  planned  to  make  cheese  four  days  each 
week,  low-rennet  cheese  being  made  one  week  and  high-rennet  cheese 
the  next,  and  then  a  week  intervening  in  which  no  cheese  was  made 
and  the  work  in  the  storage  rooms  looked  after.  This  plan  was 
followed  except  on  two  occasions,  when  the  cheese  was  made  only 
three  days  in  the  week.  Fifteen  lots  of  low-rennet  cheese  and  eleven 
lots  of  high-rennet  cheese  were  made  up,  being  in  all  twenty-six  days' 
make. 

The  first  lot  of  cheese  was  made  June  19  and  the  last  lot  in  the  regu- 
lar line  of  experiments  August  24.  It  would  have  been  more  desirable 
to  have  commenced  this  work  about  the  1st  of  June,  but,  unfortu- 
nately, arrangements  could  not  be  completed  by  that  time.  How- 
ever, the  experiments  covered  the  greater  part  of  the  storage  season, 
and  were  therefore  of  sufficient  duration  to  be  representative  of  the 
cheese  which  is  held  in  storage  throughout  the  summer  and  fall. 

DETAILS    OF    MANUFACTURE,  STORAGE,  AND    CURING. 

LOW    AND    HIGH   RENNET. 

As  had  been  done  in  some  of  the  previous  work  both  in  Wisconsin 
and  in  Canada,  cheese  was  made  up  for  these  experiments  with 
different  quantities  of  rennet,  the  normal  amount  of  3  ounces  to  1 ,000 


32  MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 

pounds  of  milk  being  used  for  part  of  the  work  and  double  this  amount 
for  the  remainder.  This  was  thought  desirable,  as  under  the  present 
market  conditions  much  of  the  cheese  is  rushed  from  the  factory  to 
the  consumer,  and  with  our  present  knowledge  of  cheese  as  a  food 
product  it  is  desirable  that  at  least  some  degree  of  ripening  should 
occur  before  the  cheese  is  eaten.  It  is  entirely  possible  that  a  great 
deal  of  cheese,  especially  in  the  early  spring,  gets  into  the  hands  of  the 
consumer  at  two  weeks  after  making.  Ordinarily  there  woidd  be  very 
little  chance  for  breaking  down  or  ripening  to  occur  within  this  period. 
It  has  been  demonstrated  that  rennet  hastens  this  process,  and  it  is 
quite  desirable,  or  at  least  appears  to  be  desirable,  to  have  some  means 
for  hastening  the  ripening  either  when  the  cheese  goes  upon  the  market 
so  young  or  when  it  goes  into  storage  direct  from  the  hoop,  as  the  cold 
temperature  of  course  checks  the  ripening  process.  Unfortunately 
there  was  no  opportunity  to  compare  the  exact  rate  of  ripening  of  the 
high  and  low  rennet  cheese.  This  has  been  done,  however,  in  Wis- 
consin, and  it  was  demonstrated  thoroughly  that  cheese  made  with 
double  the  usual  quantity  of  rennet  broke  down  much  faster  than  that 
with  the  ordinary  quantity.  The  cheese  in  our  experiments  was 
closely  observed  and  the  rate  of  ripening  was  determined,  so  far  as 
this  could  be  done  without  chemical  analysis. 

If  the  use  of  larger  quantities  of  rennet  ever  becomes  customary,  it 
will  be  desirable  to  have  some  data  to  show  the  effect  of  the  rennet  on 
the  quality  of  the  cheese  as  well  as  on  its  rate  of  ripening.  This,  of 
course,  is  demonstrated  more  or  less  thoroughly  in  the  work  here 
presented. 

SELECTION    AND   HANDLING   OF   MILK    AND    CURD. 

As  has  been  noted  before,  the  cheese  for  these  experiments  was  made 
on  a  commercial  scale.  It  was  made  up  entirely  in  a  large  vat  holding 
about  5,000  pounds  of  milk,  and  in  no  case  were  any  small  experimen- 
tal lots  manufactured.  At  first  there  was  an  attempt  made  to  select 
milk  that  would  make  up  a  good  cheese.  This  was  done  by  watching 
the  development  of  the  milk  in  the  three  vats  in  the  factory,  and  about 
the  time  the  whey  was  drawn  selecting  the  most  promising  curd. 
This  was  discontinued,  however,  after  a  few  days,  and  the  plan  then 
followed  was  to  watch  the  vats  from  day  to  day  and  take  the  contents 
of  the  vat  that  appeared  to  be  doing  the  best  for  a  continued  period  of 
time.  This  resulted  in  getting  a  few  lots  of  cheese  that  were  not  the  best, 
as  shown  in  the  curd;  a  number  of  the  curds  were  tainted,  and  in  one  or 
two  instances  the  curds  were  slightly  gassy.  This  was  not  undesirable, 
however,  from  an  experimental  point  of  view,  for  any  benefits  that 
may  be  derived  from  storage  are  likely  to  be  in  its  application  to  what 
might  otherwise  be  a  poor  cheese.  In  fact,  this  is  a  line  of  work  that 
the  Dairy  Division  has  in  view  for  the  future. 


MKTHOD    OF    STORING    AND    CUBING.  33 

The  curds  for  those  experiments  were  cooked  a  little  more  firmly 
than  was  the  custom  in  most  of  the  cheese  made  in  this  factory.  The 
tendency  in  the  factories  of  both  Wisconsin  and  New  York  is  to  make 
a  cheese  as  soft  as  possible,  or,  what  is  more  to  the  point,  to  incorpo- 
rate all  the  water  possible  in  the  curd,  as  the  reputation  of  the  maker  at 
the  present  time  depends  perhaps  more  largely  upon  the  yield  secured 
than  on  the  quality,  and  consequently  a.  large  number  of  makers  pay 
hut  little  attention  to  quality  and  considerable  attention  to  means  for 
securing  quantity.  However,  for  the  experiments  under  discussion, 
quality  was  considered  first  and  quantity  last.  The  cheese  was  prob- 
ably  not  cooked  quite  as  firm  as  was  the  custom  among  cheese  makers 
ten  or  fifteen  years  ago,  hut  it  was  carried  far  enough  to  insure  a  pro- 
duct that  would  stand  up  in  the  warmest  weather,  and  which  from 
every  point  of  view  would  he  considered  a  very  satisfactory  article. 

All  the  cheese  was  made  according  to  what  is  known  as  the  Cheddar 
process.  The  acid  was  allowed  to  develop  to  a  certain  point  before  the 
milk  was  set  and  to  develop  further  to  a  certain  degree,  as  shown  by 
the  iron  test,  before  the  whey  was  drawn.  After  the  first  few  weeks 
of  the  making  an  acidimeter  was  installed  and  used  constantly  in 
parallel  tests  with  the  hot  iron.  The  curd  was  cooked  and  allowed  to 
break  down  or  mellow  to  about  the  extent  reqiured  by  most  cheese 
makers.  It  was  ground  in  a  mill  with  knives  for  cutting  rather  than 
tearing  the  curd.  It  was  then  allowed  to  stand  until  it  stopped  drain- 
ing and  reached  about  the  proper  condition,  and  was  then  rinsed 
with  warm  water  and  salted  at  the  rate  of  about  2  to  2^  pounds  of  salt 
to  1,000  pounds  of  milk. 

METHOD   OF    STORINO    AND    CURINd. 

As  before  stated,  the  cheese  was  made  up  in  the  "Daisy"  style  as 
being  perhaps  the  most  popular  form  of  cheese  made  in  the  Northwest. 
From  the  vat  of  milk  selected  about  14  cheeses  of  this  style  were  taken 
every  day.  Of  these  2  were  allowed  to  ripen  in  the  factor}r  curing 
room,  2  were  placed  at  once  in  the  32-degree  room,  2  were  placed  at 
once  in  the  40-degree  room,  2  were  placed  in  the  32-degree  room  and 
2  in  the  40-degree  room  at  the  end  of  one  week,  and  2  were  placed  in 
the  32-degree  room  and  2  in  the  40-degree  room  at  the  end  of  two 
weeks.  They  were  divided  in  pairs  in  this  manner  so  as  to  be  sure  of 
having  duplicates  to  take  the  place  of  any  cheese  which  might  be 
injured  or  possibly  lost.  As  has  been  mentioned,  the  factory  was 
located  near  the  storage  house,  and  it  was  possible  to  get  the  green 
cheese  into  storage  exactly  at  the  times  specified.  Cheese  taken  from 
the  hoop  in  the  morning  was  put  in  the  storage  house  in  the  afternoon. 
30624— No.  85—06 3 


34  MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 


PARAFFINING. 


All  of  the  cheese  put  into  storage  at  the  end  of  one  and  two  weeks 
was  paraffined,  the  factory  being  provided  with  an  outfit  for  this  pur- 
pose. The  cheese  which  wis  immediately  placed  into  storage  was  not 
paraffined  until  from  3  to  5  weeks  old,  as  it  is  popularly  believed  among 
dealers  that  cheese  direct  from  the  press  can  not  be  paraffined  without 
injury  to  quality.  The  cheese  remaining  in  the  factory  curing  room 
was  not  paraffined.  Some  difficulty  was  encountered  in  the  paraffining 
work  with  the  cheese  which  remained  in  storage  for  several  weeks 
before  paraffining.  This  period  had  given  the  mold  time  to  commence 
developing,  and  when  the  cheese  was  paraffined  in  a  vat  belonging  to 
one  of  the  dealers  located  near  the  storage  plant  the  cold  surface  of  the 
cheese,  by  cooling  the  paraffin,  prevented  the  mold  spores  from  being 
killed,  and  the  mold  developed  after  the  cheese  was  returned  to  storage. 
In  addition  the  cold  surface  caused  an  unusually  heavy  white  coating 
of  paraffin  to  stick  to  the  surface,  and,  the  growing  mold  ruining  the 
surface  of  the  cheese,  the  combination  gave  the  cheese  a  bad  appear- 
ance. After  the  first  few  lots  were  paraffined  in  tins  manner  the 
cheese  was  held  in  the  hot  paraffin  until  the  surface  had  time  to  become 
warm.  This  killed  the  mold  spores,  made  a  much  thinner  coating,  and 
altogether  overcame  the  previous  trouble. 


DETAILS  OF    MAKING    THE    CHEESE. 


A  very  careful  record  of  all  experimental  data  was  kept  from  the 
time  the  milk  entered  the  factory  until  the  cheese  went  into  storage. 
This  record  is  presented  in  tabulated  form,  as  follows : 


DATA    OF    MA  KINO    THE    CHEESE. 


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36  MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 

It  is  understood  by  choose  makers  that  milk  develops  so  differently 
from  day  to  day,  or  even  for  the  same  day  in  different  vats,  that  it  is' 
impossible  to  make  an  exact  schedule  of  treatment  which  would  apply 
to  every  lot  of  cheese  made.  Only  one  factor  was  constant,  and  that 
was  the  temperature  of  setting  the  milk,  winch  was  always  exactly  86° 
F.  The  rennet  test  of  the  milk  was  always  made  before  setting,  and  the 
milk  reached  about  a  certain  degree  of  ripeness  depending  upon  the 
way  it  had  been  developing.  The  regular  Marshall  rennet  test  was 
used,  but  instead  of  timing  it  by  degrees  as  is  customary  it  was  timed 
by  a  watch  in  minutes  and  seconds,  which  on  the  whole  was  much 
more  exact  and  satisfactory.  The  table  shows  that  the  variation  in 
the  rennet  test  was  from  two  minutes  and  forty-five  seconds  to  four 
minutes  and  fifteen  seconds.  This  wide  range  was  not  accidental,  but 
was  due  to  the  fact  that  the  milk  was  ripening  at  different  rates  at 
these  different  periods.  The  time  from  setting  to  cutting  varied  with 
the  low-rennet  cheese  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes  and  with  the  high- 
rennet  cheese  from  twenty-two  to  thirty  minutes.  The  cheese  was 
cut  when  the  stage  of  coagulation  adopted  by  most  cheese  makers  was 
reached.  It  is  impossible  to  describe  this  stage  intelligibly,  but  it  is 
well  known  to  practical  cheese  makers.  The  temperature  of  cooking 
varied  from  98°  to  101°  F.  The  vats  in  which  the  cheese  was  made 
had  mechanical  agitators,  which  required  a  little  higher  cooking  than 
under  the  old  method  of  stirring  by  hand  and  with  rakes.  The  time 
for  cutting,  cooking,  drying,  and  salting  is  calculated  from  the  time 
of  setting,  so  that  under  the  headings  for  time  of  grinding  and  time  of 
salting  six  hours  and  fifty-five  minutes  or  five  hours  and  thirty  min- 
utes, as  the  case  may  be,  means  that  that  length  of  time  had  elapsed 
since  the  milk  was  set.  The  time  for  drawing  the  whey  was  regulated 
by  the  acid  test  after  the  first  week,  though  as  a  check  the  iron  test 
was  made  at  the  same  time.  The  acid  was  allowed  to  develop  about 
as  high  as  was  safe  without  causing  an  acid  cheese.  The  time  of 
grinding  was  regulated  by  the  condition  of  the  curd,  and  at  this  time 
also  the  acid  and  iron  tests  were  made.  Salting  was  likewise  regu- 
lated by  the  condition  of  the  curd.  The  other  columns  of  the  table 
devoted  to  firmness,  flavor,  and  remarks  will  be  taken  up  in  discussing 
individual  lots  of  cheese  in  connection  with  the  scores. 

TREATMENT  OF  FACTORY-CURED  CHEESE. 

The  first  part  of  the  cheese  kept  in  the  factory  curing  room  was  held 
until  it  had  about  reached  its  prime  condition,  when  it  was  put  into 
the  32-degree  room  and  held  there  until  all  the  factory-cured  cheese 
was  ready  for  scoring.  As  heretofore  stated,  the  factory  curing  was 
not  considered  an  important  feature  of  the  experiment,  though  there 
were  several  points  brought  out  in  the  development  of  flavors  in  this 
factory-cured  cheese  that  were  of  great  interest  in  connection  with 


THE    JUDGES    AND    THE    SCORING.  37 

future  work  contemplated  by  the  Dairy  Division.  It  was  not  con- 
sidered of  sufficient  importance  to  warrant  calling  together  theregular 
judges  for  this  work,  and  so  only  one  man  inspected  this  cheese.  Fur- 
ther, it  was  not  regarded  of  enough  importance  to  warrant  taking  up 
the  time  of  this  man  for  more  than  one  day,  on  winch  all  of  the  cheese 
was  scored.  This  of  course  made  the  first  cheese  manufactured  consid- 
erably older  than  the  last,  and  it  introduced  a  disturbing  factor  in  the 
putting  of  the  first  cheese  into  the  32-degree  storage  room.  However, 
as  fine  distinctions  in  the  comparative"  quality  of  this  lot  of  cheese 
were  not  desired,  the  information  received  was  all  that  was  wanted. 

THE    JUDGES    AND    THE    SCORING. 

Mr.  U.  S.  Baer,  assistant  dairy  and  food  commissioner  for  Wisconsin 
and  formerly  cheese  expert  for  the  university  and  experiment  station, 
scored  the  factory-cured  cheese.  ITe  also  assisted  in  the  scoring  of  the 
cold-storage  cheese,  the  other  two  judges  being  Mr.  ('.  A.  White,  of 
Fond  du  Lac,  Wis.,  and  Mr.  I.  W.  SteinhofF,  of  Stratford,  Canada. 
Mr.  White  was  unanimously  indorsed  for  this  work  by  the  cheese 
dealers  of  Plymouth  and  Sheboygan  and  was  widely  recommended  by 
persons  connected  with  the  cheese  industry  of  the  State.  Mr.  Stein- 
hoff  is  an  exceptionally  well-known  cheese  man  in  Canada,  doing  a 
large  business  and  having  been  connected  with  the  scoring  in  the  ex- 
periments conducted  at  Guelph.  These  three  men  made  a  very  satis- 
factory combination,  as  all  had  spent  many  years  in  handling  cheese 
and  each  was  an  expert  in  his  particular  line.  Mr.  Steinhoff  repre- 
sented the  Canadian  idea  and  was  an  authority  on  export  cheese,  and 
Mr.  White  was  perhaps  as  well  acquainted  with  and  as  able  to  antici- 
pate the  popular  taste  for  cheese  in  the  United  States  as  any  other 
dealer.  These  two  men  viewed  the  subject  largely  from  a  commercial 
standpoint,  while  Mr.  Baer,  who  had  been  connected  with  the  experi- 
mental work  of  the  Wisconsin  Station,  was  well  qualified  to  represent 
the  educational  or  experimental  phase. 

The  cheese  was  of  course  not  scored  as  it  went  into  storage.  The 
notes  on  the  condition  of  the  curd  and  the  way  the  cheese  was  made 
"would  be  far  more  accurate  as  an  indication  of  the  condition  and 
quality  than  any  expert  scoring  of  cheese  fresh  from  the  hoops  could 
possibly  be.  Moreover,  as  all  of  each  lot  came  from  one  vat,  it  was  of 
course  identical  and  required  no  inspection  for  the  purpose  of  properly 
dividing  it  and  placing  it  into  different  storage  rooms.  Only  one 
regular  scoring  was  attempted.  This  perhaps  may  be  open  to  criti- 
cism, but  in  the  opinion  of  the  judges  at  the  time  the  scoring  was  done 
it  was  (piite  evident  that  the  cheese  had  just  about  arrived  at  its  prime 
condition.  Some  of  the  cheese  held  for  two  weeks  in  the  factory 
curing  room  and  then  placed  in  the  40-degree  room  had  advanced  a 
little  too  far,  in  the  opinion  of  one  of  the  judges,  and  was  marked  off 


38  MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 

accordingly.  On  the  other  hand,  the  cheese  which  went  direct  into  the 
32-degree  room  from  the  hoop  was  sometimes  a  little  too  mild  to  suit 
the  other  judges,  so  the  differences  about  balanced  themselves  in  this 
respect.  In  previous  tests  made  at  other  places  a  number  of  scorings 
had  been  made,  but  it  was  impossible  to  show  from  an  inspection  of  the 
records  just  what  was  gained  by  this  extra  work  and  expense. 

EFFECT  OF  PARAFFINING  AND  TEMPERATURE  ON  WEIGHT. 

The  greater  part  of  the  cheese  was  weighed,  the  only  exception  being 
with  the  first  lots,  which  went  into  the  cold  rooms  direct  from  the  hoop, 
as  the  scales  for  use  at  the  storage  house,  though  ordered  in  ample 
time,  had  not  arrived.  A  good  pair  of  scales  was  in  use  at  the  factory, 
and  all  the  cheese  paraffined  before  going  into  storage  was  weighed. 
The  cheese  was  weighed  at  three  different  periods — as  it  came  from  the 
press,  at  the  time  it  was  paraffined,  and  finally  at  the  time  it  was 
scored.  The  weights  of  the  duplicates  only  are  given  in  the  following 
table,  as  the  plugging  made  a  difference  in  the  weight  of  the  cheese 
plugged  for  scoring : 


WEIGHTS    OF    CHEESK    AT    DIFFERENT    PERIODS. 


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40  MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 

With  the  cheese  which  went  into  storage  direct  from  the  hoop  the 
paraffining  or  weighing  was  not  done  at  any  particular  time  or  stated 
period  after  coming  from  the  hoop.  The  cheese  was  closely  observed 
and  was  paraffined  when  it  had  commenced  to  mold.  The  time,  of 
course,  was  longer  for  the  cheese  placed  in  the  32-degree  room  than 
for  that  in  the  40-degree  room.  The  cheese  placed  direct  from  the 
hoop  into  the  cold  rooms  did  not  color  up  as  rapidly  as  when  kept  in 
the  factory,  hence  the  paraffining  was  delayed  as  long  as  possible. 
It  was  thought  that  the  paraffining  might  have  some  undesirable 
effect  in  preventing  the  desired  coloration  in  the  fresh  cheese.  On 
the  other  hand  it  was  believed  thai  the  delay  in  paraffining,  when  the 
cheese  was  kept  in  a  cold  and  almost  saturated  atmosphere,  could  not 
have  had  any  bad  effect  other  than  in  allowing  mold  to  grow. 

As  has  been  stated,  the  influence  of  temperature  on  shrinkage  is  not 
so  important  since  the  adoption  of  paraffining  as  it  was  in  the  begin- 
ning of  cold-curing  experiments.  The  loss  of  weight  under  the  paraf- 
fin is  very  slight,  sometimes  the  cheese  weighing  as  much  five  months 
after  going  into  storage  as  when  first  paraffined.  The  interesting  fea- 
ture of  the  weight  of  the  cheese  in  these  experiments,  as  given  in  Table 
ff,  was  the  effect  on  the  loss  of  holding  the  cheese  from  one  to  two 
weeks  before  paraffining  and  storing,  as  was  done  in  the  regular  line 
of  the  experiment. 

The  table  shows  that  there  was  an  average  loss  of  1  pound  3  ounces 
per  cheese  in  the  cheese  kept  in  the  factory  curing  room  until  thor- 
oughly cured.  The  average  loss  of  the  cheese  put  direct  into  the  cold 
room  from  the  hoops  indicates  that  there  was  a  greater  loss  in  the 
32-deoree  room  than  in  the  40-degree  room  both  before  and  after 
paraffining.  As  the  cheese  was  held  longer  in  the  former  room  before 
paraffining,  the  greater  loss  during  this  period  might  be  expected,  but 
no  satisfactory  explanation  can  be  given  of  the  greater  loss  after 
paraffining.  With  the  cheese  put  into  the  cold  rooms  at  one  and  two 
weeks  of  age  the  32-degree  room  gave  less  average  shrinkage  in  both 
cases.     This  would  be  the  expected  result. 

The  most  interesting  feature  of  the  results  is  the  decided  saving  in 
weight  by  putting  cheese  in  storage  at  one  week  of  age  rather  than  at 
two  weeks  of  age.  This  saving  amounted  to  4  ounces  per  cheese  in  the 
32-degree  room  and  5  ounces  per  cheese  in  the  40-degree  room.  This, 
while  seemingly  small,  is  enough  of  a  saving  to  interest  both  makers 
and  dealers  who  handle  large  lots  of  cheese.  If  the  weight  lost  before 
paraffining  could  be  added,  it  would  be  an  important  item,  an  amount 
worth  attempting  to  save  if  this  could  be  done  without  injury  to  the 
quality  of  the  cheese.  At  the  present  time  it  is  considered  impossible 
successfully  to  paraffin  and  store  a  cheese  fresh  from  the  press.  Some 
work  has  been  done  along  this  line,  but  the  results  need  further  ex- 
perimental demonstration.     It  might  be  said,  however,  that  it  will 


SCORES    OF    THE    CHEESE.  41 

probably  be  found  that  cheese  can  be  paraffined  as  it  comes  from  tbe 
hoop  if  it  is  expected  to  hold  the  cheese  two  months  before  selling. 
Otherwise  the  cheese  would  not  color  up  as  desired,  but  woidd  remain 
a  pale  whitish  color,  which  would  undoubtedly  injure  its  market  price 
under  present  standards. 

In  considering  the  great  variation  in  weights  of  individual  cheeses, 
as  shown  in  Table  II,  many  things  are  found  which  are  difficult  to 
explain.  In  many  cases  there  was  no  loss  whatever  from  the  time  of 
paraffining  to  the  time  of  the  last  weighing  and  scoring,  these  dates 
being  from  five  to  seven  months  apart.  In  one  or  two  cases  there  was 
a  loss  of  S  ounces  per  cheese,  and  in  a  number  of  cases  6  ounces  were 
■lost.  This  is  a  wide  range,  and  the  only  explanation  is  that  there  was 
a  difference  in  the  paraffining.  The  paraffin  may  be  applied  at  a  very 
high  temperature,  in  which  case  a  very  thin  coating  is  left  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  cheese.  This  effects  a  saving  in  paraffin,  and  for  various 
reasons  makes  a  much  neater  appearance.  But  it  appears  that  mold 
will  grow  through  the  thin  paraffin,  and  it  is  probable  that  the  thin 
coat  allows  a  considerable  amount  of  moisture  to  escape.  This  par- 
ticular point  should  be  determined  by  experimental  tests,  as  it  is  a 
question  of  considerable  importance.  The  writer  hopes  to  get  some 
further  information  on  this  subject,  as  well  as  concerning  the  practi- 
cability of  paraffining  cheese  fresh  from  the  press.  In  present  practice 
the  temperature  of  paraffining  tanks  is  not  regidated  in  any  manner. 
Though  nearly  all  cheese  is  paraffined,  the  practice  is  still  in  its  infancy 
and  little  is  known  about  its  finer  points. 

SCORES    OF   THE    CHEESE. 

As  previously  stated,  the  cheese  in  these  experiments  was  scored 
on.l}'  once,  and  this  scoring  was  done  January  6.  The  numerical  and 
descriptive  scores  of  the  different  judges  is  given  in  Tables  III  and  IV. 
The  scores  of  the  factory-cured  cheese  are  shown  in  Table  V.  Table 
VI  gives  the  average  total  scores. 


42 


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MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 


Table  V. — Scojes  of  cheese  cured  in  factory. 
LOW  RENNET. 


Lot. 


1. 

2. 

3. 

4. 

S. 

6. 

7. 

8. 
10. 
11. 
12. 
13. 
14. 
15. 
L6. 


Fla- 
vor. 


34 
34 
34 
33'. 
35J 
22 
26 
34 
29 
37 
42 
38 
35 
38 
34 


Tex- 
ture. 


23 

20 

20 

21J 

21 

22 

20 

22 

27 

26 

24J 

24', 

23 

24 

21 


Color. 


Make- 
up. 


Total. 


Flavor  of  cheese. 


Sweet,  heated.. 

Tainted 

....do 

Old  milk 

Tainted 

Tainted,  dirty  . 

Acid,  tainted  . . 

Acid 

Tainted,  bitter  . 

Tainted 

111'.    Clean 

87J    Heated 

83  I  Weedy 

87 

80     Weedy 


Texture. 


Gritty;  Swiss  holes. 
.Still;  mealy;  loose. 

Do. 
Gritty;  mechanical  holes. 
Stiff:  mealy. 
Gritty:  loose. 
Tallowy;  loose. 
Mealy. 

Smooth;  close. 
Salvy;  gritty. 
Gritty;  loose. 
Salvy;  close. 

"Do. 
Mealy;  dry. 
Dry;  mealy. 


HIGH  RENNET. 


1... 

37 

24 

15 

10 

2... 

405 

28 

15 

10 

3... 

33 

24 

15 

10 

5... 

42* 

29 

15 

10 

6... 

40J 

275 

15 

10 

7... 

42J 

27J 

15 

10 

8... 

41 

28 

15 

10 

9... 

30 

22 

15 

10 

10... 

424 

27 

15 

10 

11... 

38 

24J 

15 

10 

12... 

43 

29 

15 

10 

935 
82 
965 
93 
95 
94 
77 
945 
875 
97 


Tainted '  Salvy;  gritty;  loose. 

Heated Stiff;  close. 

Tainted Pasty;  loose. 

Clean Waxy;  close. 

Dry;  mechanical  holes. 


Slightly  bitter. 
Acid,  bitter. . . 

Clean 

Bitter 

Clean 


Smooth;  mechanical  holes. 

Waxy. 

Tallowy. 

Mechanical  holes. 

Loose. 

Close. 


Table  VI. — Average  total  scores  of  cheese  by  lots. 
LOW  RENNET. 


Lot. 

In  32-de- 

gree  room 

from 

hoops. 

In  40-de- 

gree  room 

from 

hoops. 

In  32-de- 

gree  room 

at  one 

week. 

In  40-de- 

gree  room 

at  one 

week. 

In  32-de- 

gree  room 

at  two 

weeks. 

In  40-de- 
gree  room 
at  two 
weeks. 

Cured  at 
factor?. 

1 

•> 

93.0 

97.3 
96.6 
94.8 
94.5 
97.1 
96.0 
92.2 
96.2 
94.0 
96  9 
92.0 
95.0 
95.3 
95.5 

91.0 

98.5 
97.3 
95.6 
92.0 
95.5 
91.5 
89.0 
91.7 
95.5 
95.5 
92.0 
96.0 
93.0 
90.0 

87.9 
94.6 
96.0 
94.4 
92.5 
97.1 
91.3 
89.0 
95.0 
94.5 
93.0 
93.0 
94.0 
93.0 
91.2 

80.7 
93.7 

87.0 

94 . 6 

86.0 
94.6 

96.6 
92.1 
91.5 
93.3 
85.2 
76.2 
88.5 
93.0 
92.3 
90.5 
91.0 
89.6 
89.0 

82.0 
79.0 

3 

93.6               97.0 

93.5  96.3 

92.3    

94.1  I             93.5 
88.0               93.4 
80.0               89.2 

90.6  92.5 

94.5  96.5 

92.6  95.5 

91.5  i            92.2 
93.0              93.5 

89.6  94.4 
89.5  i            88.5 

79.0 

4 

80.0 

5 

81.5 

6 

69. 0 

7 

71.0 

8 

81.0 

10 

810 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

88.0 
91.5 
87.5 
83.0 
87.0 
80.0 

Average 

95.0+             94.3+ 

93.8+ 

90.0              93.0+ 

90.0 

81.4 

HIGH  RENNET. 


1 

95.3 
96.3 
94.0 
96.3 
88.0 
96.6 
97.8 
93.2 
91.8 
93.8 
96.0 

95.3 

89.3 

92.1     i 

96.0 

81.3 

95.5 

97.3 

90.6 

94.3 

92.6 

91.5 

91.5 
95.0 
93.0 
94.6 

93.3  ' 

89.8  | 

89.3 

92.8 

82.6 

96.6 

95.2 

89.0 

90.0 

90.3 

91.1 

93.6 
93.8 
90.1 
93.3 
84.5 
94.8 
97.0 
87.6 
92.0 
92.2 
89.0 

93.6 
91.6 
91.0 
93.0 
84.2 
94.6 
95.3 
87.2 
89.3 
91.0 
90.0 

86.0 

2 

93.5 

3 

82.0 

5 

96.5 

6 

93.0 

7 

8 

94.5 
94.8 
89.4 

95.0 
94.0 

9 

10   . 

77.0 
94.5 

11 

12 

94.3 
94.3 

87.5 
97.0 

Average 

94.4+ 

92.3    i 

93.4 

90.3 

91.6 

90.9 

90.5 

COLD    CURING    AND    ACID    CHEESE.  65 

As  shown  by  the  general  average  in  Table  VI,  the  cheese  put  in  the 
32-degree  room  direct  from  the  hoop  gave  the  highest  score,  though  the 
score  was  very  little  higher  than  that  for  the  cheese  placed  in  the 
40-degree  room  at  the  same  time.  Of  the  lots  of  cheese  placed  in  the 
cold  rooms  at  1  and  2  weeks  of  age,  the  32-degree  lot  shows  an  advan- 
tage very  marked  in  the  low-rennet  series  and  not  quite  so  marked  in 
the  high-rennet  series. 

In  the  scores  for  the  individual  lots  a  number  of  cases  are  found 
where  the  cheese  held  in  the  40-degree  room  is  given  the  higher  score. 
In  lot  10  of  the  high-rennet  cheese  the  cheese  placed  immediately  in 
the  40-degree  room  scored  on  an  average  2.5  points  higher  than  the 
cheese  placed  in  the  32-degree  room.  In  a  few  other  cases  there  was  a 
difference  of  2  points  in  favor  of  the  40-degree  room.  It  will  be  noted 
that  lot  10,  to  which  attention  is  called,  scored  very  evenly  all  the  way 
through,  getting  a  very  good  score  on  the  cheese  cured  in  the  factory 
curing  room.  This  was  true  in  every  other  case  where  the  cheese  held 
at  40°  F.  scored  as  high  as  that  kept  at  32°  F. 

On  the  other  hand,  there  were  some  instances  of  wide  variation  in 
scores  in  favor  of  the  32-degree  temperature.  As  an  example,  lot  7, 
low-rennet  cheese,  2  weeks  of  age  at  time  of  scoring,  shows  a  variation 
of  8  points  in  favor  of  the  32-degree  room.  Lot  8,  low-rennet  cheese, 
shows  a  variation  all  the  way  through.  In  lookin  ■  at  Table  III  in  the 
descriptive  score  for  these  lots,  we  find  that  taints  developed  in  the 
cheese  kept  out  of  the  cold  rooms  for  one  and  two  weeks  which  did  not 
show  in  the  cheese  placed  at  once  in  the  cold  room.  Further,  after 
these  taints  had  once  started  to  develop,  it  would  certainly  appear  that 
the  32-degree  temperature  served  much  better  to  hold  them  in  check 
than  the  40-degree  temperature.  These  points  are  illustrated  and 
emphasized  in  many  instances  in  the  descriptive  score.  The  influence 
of  the  colder  temperature  seemed  about  equal  on  flavor  and  texture. 

The  greatest  beneficial  influence  of  cold  curing  is  with  what  would 
otherwise  be  poor  cheese.  Because  of  this  fact  Tables  III  and  IV  are 
much  more  interesting  and  show  more  valuable  information  than  the 
table  of  average  results.  Cold  curing  derives  its  value  chiefly  from  its 
effect  on  what  might  otherwise  be  poor  cheese  rather  than  from  any 
effect  it  ma}"  have  in  bettering  all  cheese. 

COLD    CURING    AND    ACID    CHEESE. 

Perhaps  the  most  interesting  feature  brought  out  in  all  tins  work  is 
shown  in  the  descriptive  scores  of  lots  7  and  8,  low  rennet,  and  lot  9, 
high  rennet.  These  three  lots  were  allowed  to  develop  too  much  acid 
in  the  process  of  making,  and  under  ordinary  conditions  of  placing  in 
storage  at  2  weeks  of  age  lot  8  would  have  been  a  "dead  sour."  The 
cheese  held  in  the  factory  two  weeks  and  placed  in  the  40-degree  room 
was  much  deteriorated,  while  the  one  that  went  fresh  from  the  press  to 
30624— No.  85—06 5 


66  MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 

the  32-degree  room  was  very  good.  It  was  evident  that  with  this  lot 
of  cheese  the  32-degree  temperature  checked  the  acid  much  better  than 
the  40-degree  temperature.  It  has  been  generally  believed  by  dealers 
that  a  cheese  with  too  much  acid  should  be  kept  out  of  storage  as  long 
as  convenient,  as  acid  has  been  supposed  to  develop  more  and  cause 
greater  injury  to  the  cheese  by  going  early  into  the  cold  storage.  It 
would  appear  from  the  results  with  the  three  lots  mentioned  that  the 
quicker  an  acid  cheese  can  be  placed  in  cold  storage  and  the  colder  the 
room  the  better  the  cheese  will  be.  This  is  a  very  important  subject 
with  the  dealers,  for  this  question  of  acid  is  the  principal  obstacle  to 
the  buying  of  cheese  by  the  dealer  as  it  comes  from  the  hoop.  Fur- 
thex*  investigation  of  this  point  is  needed,  and  will  be  undertaken  in  the 
near  future. 

VARIATIONS    IX    SCORES    OF   THE    DIFFERENT    JUDGES. 

Some  explanation  is  needed  of  the  wide  variation  of  scores  as  given 
by  different  judges.  The  separate  scores  of  each  of  the  three  judges  are 
indicated  by  the  initials  of  their  names — B.  (Baer),  S.(Steinhoff),  and 
W.  (White). 

As  before  mentioned,  Mr.  Baer  represented  the  experimental  side, 
while  the  other  two  judges  were  commercial  men.  Mr.  Baer's  scores, 
therefore,  naturally  presented  a  much  wider  variation  than  those  of 
the  other  judges.  He  took  off  more  for  faults.  A  condition  which  was 
not  anticipated  was  found  in  the  tendency  of  Mr.  Steinhoff  to  mark 
down  the  cheese  that  had  been  held  in  the  factory  for  two  weeks  before 
curing,  because,  as  he  said,  it  had  too  high  a  flavor  for  the  English 
market.  This  cheese  had  barely  commenced  to  develop  a  good  cheese 
flavor,  and  had  not  become  sharp  in  the  least.  The  other  two  judges 
were  inclined  to  favor  it  because  of  the  characteristics  which  Mr. 
Steinhoff  condemned.  The  view  taken  by  Mr.  Steinhoff  was  some- 
thing of  a  surprise,  as  it  was  generally  understood  that  the  English 
people  were  lovers  of  cheese  with  a  well-developed,  even  sharp,  flavor. 
Mr.  Steinhoff  said  that  the  English  demand  for  milder  cheese  was 
growing  very  rapidly.  Ii  this  continues,  it  is  only  a  matter  of  a  very 
few  years  until  all  cheese,  if  ripened  at  all,  will  have  to  go  through  the 
ripening  process  under  conditions  of  temperature  that  will  entirely 
suppress  flavor  development. 

As  has  been  stated,  the  demand  for  mild  cheese  has  grown  by  leaps 
and  bounds  in  this  country  until  it  has  become  possible  to  dispose  of 
cheese  to  consumers  under  two  weeks  from  the  time  it  leaves  the  press. 
We  do  not  care  to  enter  into  any  discussion  of  the  desirability  of  this 
popular  taste.  It  would  certainly  appear  to  most  people  who  eat 
cheese  because  they  love  it  that  this  tendency  is  wrong  and  can  have 
no  beneficial  effect  in  the  increased  use  of  cheese  as  a  regular  part  of 
the  diet. 


RELATION  OF  GREEN  CURD  TO  CURED  CHEESE.       07 

There  has  been  some  reason  to  believe  that  the  consumption  of  green 
cheese  was  due  to  the  fact  that  such  a  product  was  forced  on  the  con- 
sumer by  the  dealers  and  retailers,  so  a  test  was  determined  on. 
Arrangements  were  made  with  one  of  the  retail  dealers  in  the  market  at 
Washington,  D.  C,  to  sell  three  kinds  of  cheese  as  an  experiment.  One 
lot  was  under  2  weeks  of  age  and  to  all  appearance  had  not  broken  down 
in  the  least .  Another  lot  had  been  ripened  from  the  hoop  in  a  32-degree 
temperature  and  was  well  broken  down  but  almost  without  flavor. 
The  third  lot  had  been  carried  in  the  factory  curing  room  and  then  held 
in  a  40-degree  room  for  several  months.  It  was  the  cheese  which  Mr. 
Steinhoff  criticised  as  being  too  strong  for  the  English  market,  but 
which  was  highly  praised  by  the  other  judges.  These  three  cheeses 
were  exposed  for  sale  in  two  different  markets,  samples  from  all  three 
lots  being  placed  side  by  side  and  customers  asked  to  select.  In  one 
stall  8  customers  selected  the  green  cheese,  24  selected  the  mild  cold- 
cured  cheese,  and  11  selected  the  cheese  with  the  well-developed  flavor. 
At  the  other  stall  30  selected  the  green,  uncured  cheese,  29  selected  the 
mild,  well-cured  cheese,  and  11  selected  the  cheese  with  the  marked 
flavor.  It  would  appear  from  this  that  the  mild  cheese,  either  cured 
or  uncured,  was  preferred  by  most  buyers. 

The  writer  has  no  comment  to  make  on  this  except  to  repeat  that 
from  all  indications  the  time  is  soon  coming  when  all  cheese,  if 
ripened  at  all,  must  be  ripened  at  low  temperatures;  and,  further, 
the  sooner  it  is  put  into  cold  storage  the  better. 

RELATION  OF  GREEN  CURD  TO  CURED  CHEESE. 

Some  interest  attaches  to  the  question  of  how  much  the.quality  of  the 
ripened  cheese  depends  upon  the  quality  of  the  curd  during  the  pro- 
cess of  making.  It  has  been  usually  considered  that  any  undesirable 
quality  likely  to  be  found  in  the  ripened  cheese  will  first  appear  in  the 
curd  sometime  during  the  process  of  making.  In  other  words,  a 
faulty  or  tainted  curd  makes  a  poor  cheese:  or,  vice  versa,  a  good  curd 
makes  a  good  cheese.  Many  cheese  makers  in  selecting  a  cheese  for 
exhibition  make  the  selection  by  the  character  of  the  curd.  Lots  12, 
14,  and  16  (low  rennet)  and  lot  9  (high  rennet)  in  Table  I  were  tainted. 
The  descriptive  score  shows  that  lot  12  scored  unusually  high,  lot  14 
was  about  as  good,  while  lot  16  was  not  a  bad  cheese.  Lot  16  was 
tainted  at  the  time  of  scoring,  but  the  other  two  were  not,  and  had 
evidently  not  been  influenced  by  the  taint  which  appeared  in  the 
curd.  Lot  9  of  the  high-rennet  series  turned  out  to  be  bitter,  but  the 
cheese  which  went  direct  into  the  32-degree  room  from  the  hoop  was  a 
very  fine  cheese,  evidently  above  all  criticism. 

On  the  other  hand,  lots  6  and  13  (low  rennet)  are  marked  as  very  fine 
curds,  as  are  lots  10,  11,  and  12  (high  rennet).  Lot  6  scored  very  well, 
but  the  others  did  not  score  as  high  as  might  have  been  expected. 


68  MANUFACTURE    AND    CURING    OF    CHEESE. 

EFFECT    OF    EXTRA    RENNET. 

The  advisability  of  using  extra  quantities  of  rennet  has  not  yet  been 
determined.  It  was  found  that  the  cheese  broke  down  faster  with 
high  rennet,  but  this  fact  has  been  demonstrated  before.  Theoret- 
ically, where  the  supply  and  demand  make  it  necessary  to  use  very 
young  cheese,  anything  that  will  hasten  the  ripening  process  would 
be  desirable.  There  is  reason  to  doubt  whether  this  would  pay  in 
practice.  With  regard  to  the  comparative  keeping  qualities  of  the 
high  and  low  rennet  cheese,  it  was  stated  by  the  Wisconsin  Station 
that  in  its  experiments  the  high-rennet  cheese  deteriorated  in  quality 
much  quicker  than  that  made  with  normal  rennet.  This  was  not 
found  to  be  true  of  the  cheese  made  for  the  experiments  of  the  Dairy 
Division.  In  these  experiments  it  was  found,  on  the  other  hand,  that 
while  the  high-rennet  cheese  broke  down  in  a  much  shorter  period  of 
time  than  the  normal  rennet  cheese,  it  held  its  good  qualities  fully  as 
long  if  not  longer  than  the  low-rennet  cheese.  From  the  scores  of  the 
factory-cured  cheese  it  might  appear  that  additional  rennet  aided  the 
cheese  in  some  way  to  withstand  the  warm  temperature  of  the  factory 
curing  room. 

o 


CONTROL   AND   ERADICATION-   OF   CONTAGIOUS    DISEASES. 

Inspectors  in  charge  ofahstricts. 


Dr.  R.  A.  Ramsay,  320Quincy  Building,  Denver, 
Colo.,  tn general  charge  6t  eradication  of  scabies 

Ol  sheep  and  cattle  in  the  West  - 

AJtmquerque,  N.  Ilex. — Dr.  Louis  Metsker,  room 

22  N.  T.  Armijo  Building. 
Deuver.Colo. — Dr.  Lowell  Clarke,  room  320  Quincy 

Building. 


Fargo,  V  Dak.— Dr.  R.  II.  Treacy. 

Kansas  City,  Kans.— Albert  Dean,  room  328  Live 

stock  Exchange. 
Salt  Lake  City,  Utah.— George  S.  Ilickox,  room 

21  Eagle  Block. 


INSPECTION   OF   LIVE   STOCK   FOR   EXPORT. 

Inspectors  in  charge. 


Baltimore,  Md.— Dr.  H.  A.  Hedrick,  215  St.  Paul 

New  York,  N.  Y.— Dr.  W.  H.  Rose,  18  Broadwav. 
Norfolk,  Va.— Dr.  G.  C.  Faville,  P.  0.  hex  796. 


Philadelphia,  Pa.— Dr.  C.  A.  Schaufler,  134  South 
Second  street. 

Portland,  Me.— Dr.  F.  W.  Huntington,  U.  S.  cus- 
toms office,  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  wharf. 


INSPECTION    AND   QUARANTINE   OF   IMPORTED   ANIMALS. 


Quarantine  stations. 


Athenia,  N.  J.  (for  the  port  of  New  York). — Dr. 

George  W.  Pope,  superintendent. 
Halethorp,  Md.   (for  the  port  of  Baltimore). — 

William  H.  Wade,  superintendent. 


Littleton,  Mass.  (for  the  port  of  Boston).— Dr. 
J.  F.  Ryder,  inspector  in  charge,  141  Milk  street, 
Boston,  Mass. 


Inspectors  on  the  Canadian  "border. 


Calais,  Me.— Dr.  IT.  T.  Potter. 

Carthage,  N.  Y.— Dr,  W.  S.  Corlis. 

Detroit,  Mich. — Dr.  t.  K.  Green,  care  Hammond, 

Standish  A-  Co. 
Fort  Fairfield,  Me. — Dr.  F.  M.  Perry. 
Malone,  N.  Y.— Dr.  II.  D.  Mayne. 
Newport,  Vt— Dr.  G.  W.  Ward. 


Ogdensburg,  N.  Y.— Dr.  Charles  Cowie. 

Orono,  Me. — Dr.  F.  L.  Russell. 

Port    Huron,   Mich. — Dr.    David   dimming,  912 

Lapeer  avenue. 
St.  Albans,  Vt.— Dr.  C.  L.  Morin. 
Sault  Ste.  Marie,  Mich.— Dr.  J.  F.  Deadman. 


Inspectors  on  the  Mexican  border. 


El  Paso,  Tex.— Dr.  Thomas  A.  Bray. 
San  Antonio,  Tex. — Dr.  Joseph  W.  Parker. 


San  Diego,  Oal.— Dr.  Robert  Darling,  care  Charles 
S.  Hardy. 


VETERINARY    INSPECTORS    STATIONED   ABROAD. 


Dr.W.  H.  Wray,  34Streatham  Hill,  London,  S.  W. 
England,  in  charge  for  Great  Britain  and  Ire- 
land. 


Dr.  T.  A.  Geddes,  care  U.  S.  consulate,  London, 

England. 
Dr.  V.  A.  Norgaard,  Honolulu,  Hawaii. 


UNIVERSITY  OF  FLORIDA 


3  1262  08928  7535 


